Today makes ONE YEAR since my arrival in Cameroon, Africa.
1 year-12 months-52 weeks-365 days
8,765 hours or 525,949 minutes.
The Good: The cost of living in Cameroon is SOO cheap and SOO fresh!- I can buy
a massive juice fresh pineapple for 150fcfa or 25cents. 4 mangoes (in
season) or 4 bananas just picked off the tree for 100fcfa (20cents).
The Bad: Salary here is a joke. That is if people even get paid! Sometimes people work for months without salary and both government jobs and private jobs. Even when they do get paid, it's close to nothing. It is not possible to pay rent, pay bills, feed your children, send them to school with books and supplies, have a tiny bit to buy a bottle of beer every now and again AND save. It's just not possible. It's incredibly sad to see people who are intelligent, hard working and capable struggle like this. Even me, its why I have to leave...the salary is just too low I cant afford to live here.
The Awesome: I am learning Pidgin-English!! What is this you ask!? Well, it's more useful than one might imagine... This "language" is spoken by more than 80 million people world wide. I say "language" because it varies by the location - but a lot of the structure more or less stays the same, it's mostly the vocabulary that changes. Surprisingly, I am picking up on this quite well. I would say after one year I am at or beyond my proficiency in French. At first, I was so confused why educated people who knew English would speak this language amongst each other (I assumed it was for the illiterate) but after inquiring and getting the response, "It just flows" I know understand...ei di flow. This can help me get jobs all over West Africa!! Sierra Leone, Ghana, Nigeria, The Gambia, Liberia and of course Cameroon. Generally, if they dont speak French, they speak Pidgin :) Or in some places, like Sierra Leone, they call it Creole. Here in Cameroon, Pidgin is a mixture of English, French and local dialects! Pidgin varies even depending on the area you are in within the Southwest and Northwest regions.
The Bad: Not only do I stick out like a sore thumb being a 'whiteman' here in Cameroon (and most of Africa for that matter), there are also several stereotypes come along with being a "whiteman". At first you get quite offended when everyone says "you are white, you have money." but after you realize the culture and how we as westerners are perceived...you can't really get that upset. So people think you are rich and have a ton of money. Therefore, people (not everyone) are constantly asking you for things, telling you how bad their life is, trying to make you pay more, or just flat out saying "take me to your country" or "marry me (or my brother)" or "I love you" or heaps of random other phrases.
The Ridiculous: After living in Ndejje Village, Uganda -- I feel like I am in a first world nation. Actually. Even if the power does go out and I have no running water ever now and again.
The Awesome: I have mastered bucket baths. Believe me, there is a technique and I am proud to say I know it very well.
The Bad: I might have taken a few years off of my life. The
amount of oil (red palm oil, ground nut oil and regular palm oil) that
the put into food is actually insane. I've seen meals being prepared: at
the end they take a liter of palm oil and stir it in. When they serve
things at restaurants (or even in homes) you can tip the place and watch
the oil pour (yes, pour) off the plate. When the food is sitting in the
pot after its finished, you can literally spoon out oil that has risen
to the top of the food and pooled in different sections. Plus, they love
sugar! They love sugar so much that they saturate their salads
(avocado, onion and tomatoes) with condensed milk and most people take minimum 4 sugar in their tea/coffee which already has condensed milk. God help me.
The Ridiculous: People think that just because I can sit on the floor with my legs crossed that I am Muslim.
The Bad: There are mice and cockroaches all over my house. No, I am not a dirty person. Everyone has them. I have one friend who actually has named two mice that are in her house.
Here I am, shoe in hand, going after a mouse!!
The Good: I have gotten really good at killing the mice with shoes. It worked better when Monica and I were living together because we sort of tag-teamed them and trapped them in but I still manage without her.
The Ridiculous: A friend and I once killed an entire family (of mice). I thought there was just one but one turned into two, two turned into four.
Goodbye family of mice that kept nibbling into my food!
The Good:I LIVE IN BUEA - CAN DRINK TAP WATER!!! HOORAY!!!
The Ridiculous: I used the pumpkin spice coffee creamer that my sister sent me in a care package with my instant coffee and a bit of instant milk and it was like heaven in a cup. I felt like I was getting a Pumpkin Spice Late from some small locally owned organic coffee shop in Humboldt.
The Good: After a year, I am comfortable doing 99.9% of things here along. I know where things are. I know the prices. I know how to talk to people. I know how to be culturally sensitive. And one awesome part: everyone (that is an obvious exaggeration) knows me too!
The Good: Happy Sunday! Sunday is like a weekly holiday here. Nearly everything is close (at least until late afternoon). Everyone wears their traditional clothing and most people attend church and/or their njangi meeting. People are so cheerful and always greet by saying "Happy Sunday" and then you can reply "Same to you." or my favorite, "Happy! Happy!" This is usually a popular phone calling day (see below).
The Awesome: Calling just to greet. At first, I was so confused and honestly a bit annoyed with people/friends/acquaintances who called me just to say HI and see how I was doing. The conversations were honestly like 30sec-1min long and had no purpose or point other than salutations. But now, I call to do the same thing - usually on Sunday! People are so happy and so grateful. I can have a full conversation with a friend, greet her whole family, check on how everything in her life is going and finish within 1min. I literally scroll through my phonebook to call people that I havent seen or talked to in a while. People do the same to me. Its really nice.
The Bad: I care less about littering and
artificial and/or toxic GMO foods. In fact, as much as I hate to admit
this I cant deny... I have littered here.
The Awesome: I live in a country where there are over 260 different ethnic groups/clans. I've been able to witness some amazingly awesome traditional events!!
Malleh Dance aka Elephant Dance
Pala Pala Wrestling
Witnessing some traditional dances
A Bayangi Juju
The Ridiculous: Everyone ones to adopt you into their tribe/clan so they give you a traditional name... its so difficult to remember them all! So far:
Bayangi name = Nsunsu (pronounced: nn sue sue)
Bakossi name = Ebude Mbulle (pronounced: ay boo day mm boolay)
Bamenda name: Manka (pronounced: ma n ka)
Ibo* name: Ijeoma (pronounced: ee jee oma)
*Ibo is a tribe in Nigera but since they boarder Cameroon there are many who live here now.
The Awesome: I have a solid friend and family base here. I've been to white weddings, court weddings, traditional weddings, funerals, first communions, birthday parties, graduation parties, memorials and more. I don't know what I would do without them and I dont know what I will do when I leave.
small pikin dem
So it has been one full year. A year I will never forget. I have exactly 16 weeks or 112 days until I leave Buea, my new home. It's a frighting thought. An inevitable event, which I always knew was coming. But to have the date set. To actually be purchasing the ticket makes it much more real, and much more sad. Of course I am happy to see my family, go home, start grad school, etc -- but I love my life here. I love my friends. I love my work. I love my students. It's amusing to me to think that some 'volunteers' come for 2 weeks or 2 months and then they leave and never look back. Then here I am dreading my departure in 4 full months, longer than the time some people spend here. I have already began planning my 'send off' party!! Anyways, I am looking forward to getting back stateside. I know the transition will be difficult but I am ready to move onto the next stage...hopefully going back to school at SIT Graduate Institute in Vermont.
From pregnant mamas to old paps, babies, toddlers teens and everyone in between: everyone dances here. No matter how old or how young, where you are, what you are doing, what music is playing... nothing matters - just dance. I think that's why everyone dances so good, because they have been feeling rhythm and dance moves since they were in the womb. I remember watching a voodoo ceremony in Benin in 2011, there was this mama dancing ferociously around a fire with her baby strapped onto her back with a loin cloth...I remember thinking, "Wow, that baby is going to be a great dancer when it is older." Coming from a culture that is much more reserved in its dancing practices, it's a really beautiful thing here to see such a variety of people dancing so freely.. not embarrassed that they might be dancing "pooly", not worried that they are literally the only person dancing in a room - they are simply loving life and moving to the groove.
Another thing that is quite different when it comes to the dancing culture here is Cameroonians love watching themselves dance. In nearly all of the night clubs/bars/cabarets there are huge mirrors where people will stand and dance by themselves in front of the mirror, just watching themselves. At first I found it a bit odd, but to each their own, right? My friend told me that the main reason there are mirrors in the clubs is not for people to watch themselves dance, but to ward off spirits. If a spirit comes to the club, once he/she sees the mirrors, they will leave. A spirit cannot see his/her own reflection and the mirror and that means they cannot stay in the club.
Spirits and ancestors are very much alive here -
they are part of everyday life.
Bride Price
My whole life I've read about the negatives of bride price, how it objectifies the woman, makes them out to be some sort of possession or object to buy/sell/own and I've openly opposed it. Until now. Tradition is such a beautiful thing and a wedding wouldn't be what it is without hearing the pig squealing in agony as it is on its way to get slaughtered the morning after the wedding. I don't see it so much as a 'purchasing a woman' anymore - its much more about tradition. At least here anyways.
I was told that my future husband should give to my father: 4 full grown pigs, 3 goats, 50 liters of palm oil, 50 liters of palm wine and 1 million cfc ($2,000USD). Not bad ey, Dad?
Libation
I first came across this practice when I went to a Bakossi wedding in Douala with my co-worker and friend Delegate (aka Max). There was some sort of figure in the middle of the room. People were dancing, giving speeches and pouring palm wine on top of it. I was a bit confused but just snapped photos and went with it.
Last week in Mamfe, I watched a friend pour his beer into a glass. I watched him over-pour as the beer 'head' spilled over the top and all over the table. I wish I could say that was the first time I saw that but I see it all the time. I consistently see Cameroonians over-pour their drinks and spill them all over. I always think "What a mess! Watch what you're doing. What poor judgement of how much to pour" among other things. As I watched him, I just started to laugh out loud. He says "why yu di laugh so?" (why are you laughing like that). I said to him "Why don't you stop sooner so you don't make a mess?" He explained to me that when you purposely over-pour a drink to spill, its libation for your ancestors.
-Open
bottle with teeth. Only true Cameroonians do this... aka ALL
Cameroonians do this...I just hope I don't break my tooth - not too sure
how good the dentists are here.
Welcome to Bakwelle Village
Upon arrival we greeted the family we were staying with (My friend Sarah's host family is from the village) and started to walk to the football field to watch the match.
In all honesty, I did't watch more than 5min of the football game... I was much too distracted by the adorable children running around me playing and begging for my attention!
This boy has got his poses down!
After the match we strolled back to the house and just passed time with the family and many others in the village. There is only one "store" (if you could call it that) in the village and it is owned by the family and located right at the front of their yard. Because of this, the compound made for a very lively location where people frequently passed by to get a beer, buy some sweets, or just to visit. There were many people around after dark and I was practicing my pidgin with a few of the local mamas. They were quite impressed (...or maybe it was more amused), especially after I told them that I was a Bakossi woman with the name Ebude.
The following morning, Saturday, there was a 'marathon' for the men and women of the village. There was about a total of 20 participants and half of them were barefoot! After the running event we had a lot of time to waste until the 'cultural festivities' started in the afternoon...so we strolled...
"Take my snap!!" "Show me! Show me!"
He is making his own chair!
We met in the community hall around 4pm and the activities commenced.
The audience...
Coca cola+wine = drink for the guests
Women's cultural dance
"TAKE A SNAP!" (during the award giving)
This little gal would not leave my arms, I left go and she
just clung to me like a koala bear in a tree.
Enjoy this video of the cultural festivities...
After the festivities we went to Mamfe for a bit of live music and dancing.
The next morning we were on our way to Bamenda and then on the bus back to Buea.
View driving from Mamfe to Bamenda
Little did I know, I had contracted malaria during this wonderful visit.
Jungle Road: 2011 vs. 2013 Ikom, Nigeria to Mamfe, Cameroon
When I was in Cameroon in 2011we crossed from Nigeria into Cameroon via the epic and infamous 'jungle road'. There were pot holes the size of our truck. We would literally drive in and out of the pot holes - if it was wet season, there is no way we would have passed through that way. There was rumor that the Chinese were going to pave the road. They have interest in doing that because they export a lot of Cameroon's timber.
When we were in Bakwelle, I was able to see the transformation first hand... I didnt even recognize the road until I friend pointed and said "if you keep going that way, you will hit the Nigerian boarder".
Left is Nigeria - Right is to Mamfe
Bakossi Police Man
We left Mamfe towards Bamenda in a shared taxi. As usual - 3 in the front (including driver) and 4 in the back. We were stopped at a road block for at least 30 min because our driver didnt have 'proper documents'. Just around the time I was about to jump on the next passing bus, the police let him go. At the next stop, all of us, the passengers, were asked for ID. Without hesitation I handed him my certified photocopy of my passport and visa. He looked at the front. Tuned it around. Looked at the back and said, "This has expired, step out of the car" - All I could think was ...great, now I'm the hold up. We walked over to the shack of a police office on the side of the road to discuss further with his other police colleagues. He was confused... I was issued a 6-month visa in January so he thought it expired in June. I explained to him that I didnt enter the country until March 10th meaning it doesn't expire until September 10th. After he realized his mistake, his colleague noticed something else. "This document is expired! Certified documents are only good for 3 months in Cameroon. You must get them re-certified after 3 months! This is not valid!" This is true, this is something I had been told before but never really listened to because I didn't see it affecting me. "We will have to take you down to the main office." He says in a stern voice... I was not about to get brought in by the police, so I started to talk my way out of it "Abeg sir, a no no me. dey no tell me at police station" - They look shocked from my Pidgin, "What nationality are you!?" I reply, "a bi Bakossi woman, ma name na Ebude" (Bakossi is a tribe here) "No, what county are you from?" "a komot fo Amerika" He looks pleased, "And you are already speaking our language here!? You say you are Bakossi, that means you are my sister!" I look at his name tag, it's a Bakossi name. I say in his dialect "Chang makem" He looked even more surprised and give me a traditional handshake and replied "Makem makem boyum" He told me that I could go because I spoke his dialect.
Thankfull I got out of that mess! But, no worries. I went straight to the Buea Police Station and applied for my residence permit - now I am half Cameroonian for real! And, with this permit, I can go and come as I please for 2 years!!
Work, School, NGO, etc
Work with YAN starts in 1 week. I've been in contact with the previous fellows who worked last year and have been getting some good insight! I am so excited to begin working! Please see my fundraising page and donate what you can.
I am still doing things here and there for Green Cameroon. They just launched their September fundraiser on GlobalGiving. Check it out HERE.
The curriculum I was doing through Ompraksh EdGE has been finished for some time now, but my capstone thesis is creeping up on me. That will need to be finished by the end of the month.
I have this crazy idea of teaching a "CV/resume and cover letter/letter of motivation" class for students here. I've been speaking with several students (Buea is mostly comprised of students) and all of them complain about their lack of knowledge pertaining to CVs, resumes and letters involved in applying for a job. I don't know where I would teach, where I would advertise, how much I would charge (everyone says that if I dont charge no one will take it seriously), or when it would be... but its just an idea I have.
Rainy Season
The season is still wet, but its has been changing... it doesnt rain 24/7 now - we will have torrential down pour followed by overcast or even sun. It's not too bad! But, I am really looking forward to the sun and dry season!!
Cameroonian Football
Tomorrow, I am hopefully crossing off another thing on my bucket list - Cameroon plays Libya in a World Cup qualifier. Went to the market today to get my jersey, leaving at 6am tomorrow morning for Yaounde...wish me luck!! Hope the crowd isn't too crazy, I hope they win, and most of all - I hope it doesn't rain!! Look for me on TV!!
all man de talk pidgin for dis syd so ei wan lurn em fyno.
ei de hear pidgin na but ei no de talk fyn, ei de try.
ei no wan go bak fo whiteman country,
ei go stay fo long tym an ei go talk pidgin plenty.
I have been slowly and inconsistently jotting down some 'ethnographic field notes' as I like to call them.
In this post, I would like to share some things I have observed.
This is Africa (TIA)
Have you ever seen the movie Blood Diamond starting Leonardo DiCaprio?
If yes, maybe you will remember the clip below.
If not, watch the clip, watch the movie and maybe you will get what I am about to explain.
This phrase acronym, "TIA", is commonly said here by locals and 'expats' alike. There are things that happen here that are very unlikely to happen where I am from and were many 'expats' are from. For Africans, it is just life. You take a bucket bath with cold water, everyday. When the water comes on you have to stop everything you are doing to 'carry water' (fill containers, bottles and tubs to bring back to the house for storage because the water could cut out at anytime and for who knows how long). Teachers don't show up to class and there is no 'substitute teacher' filling in. The roads are absolute shit. You see a 4-year old child carrying her baby sister of 6 months on her back with a loin cloth. At first, theses situations are difficult to deal with - maybe you complain about the mud, or the electricity cutting out. Maybe you are appalled that you are unable to get a 'refund' from something you bought that doesnt work. Maybe you see a family of 4 with a live goat and 2 chickens on a moto bike and you cant stop staying with an open jaw. Either way, regardless of the situation you just gotta tell yourself... "TIA man, TIA." This is AFRICA.
Monica have been battling a family of mice in our house. I
stomped one with a shoe, caught a baby on a sticky pad, and fed another
rat poison...we found him in the cushions of the couch a few days
later. I was telling a Cameroonian friend the story and as I did, I see a
cockroach. I run and try to stomp it dead as I complain, "Man, this
house has everything! Mice, spiders, cockroaches, ants..." He said "TIA
girl, this is Africa, all of Africa has these things, not just your house". This same friend told me just the other day that he was veeeerry sick, I asked him how so. He said that he was suffering from typhoid fever and malaria. He was diagnosed the day before but hadn't taken the drugs yet because he was waiting to get some money, meanwhile he just suffered in his house. I was very shocked and surprised and he could see it in my face, but he reminded me, "TIA, blak man no de di doty" which you may recall from another blog post, black man doesnt die of dirt - Africans are very very strong.
Soon enough, these things will stop surprising you you. While waiting at the bus park in Yaounde a couple of weekends ago I met a woman who was traveling to Buea to see her son. He is 3 years old and he was in the hospital. I said ashia meaning "sorry" in pidgin and continued to ask her why. Apparently him and another small boy were playing with machetes and he got cut on his face below his eye. I wasnt phased by the fact that children of that age were left unsupervised with access to a machete for a long enough period of time for an accident such as that to happen. Why? TIA. Anytime anything happens that cannot be explained or understood - you just remind yourseld, TIA.
Life is different here: life is simple yet hard, life is rewarding yet unpredictable... life has many ups and downs...but
everyone knows, life is very very special, and you
have to make the most of whatever you have.
"Dash" "ei go dash yu" "shuld ei dash em?" "yu go dash me em?"
"I'm going to give it to you" "Should I give it to you?" "Are you going to give it to me?"
These
are common phrases you will hear all over town and especially in the
markets or where people are selling things. People here, as I've
mentioned are extremely hospitable, giving and caring people.
By simply complimenting someone's anything, the true generosity of Cameroonians is evident, you are more than likely going to be offered that thing. Dash = to give for free, a gift. A person would literally give you the shirt off their back and the shoes off their feet. People will dash anything from necklaces and other jewelery to food, taxi rides and more. It's quite beautiful. Not a day
goes by that I am not amazing with someones actions towards another
person or someones actions towards me.
The Importance of Religion
In the US we have what is called "separation of church and state" which pretty much means that the state can make no public acknowledgement of religion, have no religious displays, recognize no tax exemptions for churches blah blah blah. Here - oh no, there is no separation, and if you attempt to separate it you will be thoroughly questioned by all parties.
Before AND after any sort of meeting, whether it be for school, policemen, government bodies, a university group of some sort, or even my workshops for the teen girls...you MUST pray.
Individuals ranging from children being served in their house to a grown man eating in a restaurant will usually bow their head and give a small silent blessing over their food before eating.
When you meet people for the first time, there are about 5 major questins you are always asked in no particular order. -What's your name -Where are you from? -What are you doing in Cameroon? -What church do you go to? or "Do you go to church? [After that comes - How will I see you again? Can I get your contacts? Are you married?] Church is very important here and I have been asked countless times to go with different friends from nearly every city I have visited.
There is a very popular show with many of the locals called TB Joshua. As a Christian minister, televangelist and faith healer he is recognized as one of Africa's 50 most influential people. I remember crowding around the TV with my sisters watching Full House. This is what families and friends commonly sit together and watch:
The Concept of "Family" and the Communistic Attitude
When you think of family, what comes to you mind? Mother, father, brothers and sisters? Think of yourself in grade school, the teacher asks you to draw a picture of your family and 99 out of 100 times a person will draw the nuclear family, the immediate family. Sometimes there are people who will extend that thought to grandparents and aunts, uncles and family pets but that isn't common where I come from.
The term 'family' is a very complicated and can be interpreted in infinite ways. At first I found myself a bit puzzled and uneasy not knowing who was who in the family.
"Is this your uncle, your brother, your cousin or just a family friend?"
"He is my brother."
"Your real brother?"
"Yes my real brother, his family lived next to my family in the village."
.........
It is really all the same here. Friends are family and those from your village are also your family. My friend Peter* lives in Yaounde. I met Bob* in Yaounde when I went to visit for the first time. At one point, Peter and Bob met, they got talking about their past, village, tribe, etc and they realized that they both came from the same village. Peter knew Bob's father. Bob put Peter up in a hotel that night because it was too late in the evening for him to get a ride home. I was shocked by this generality and then Peter explained, "Family reaches as far as your village members. If he came to my door I would give him my bed and sleep on the floor. It's just the way it is here."
Even 'outsiders' are accepted in.
When I went to the wedding in Douala, the family welcomed me with open arms. I really felt at home. Just a few weeks ago, a family member had died. I had several of the "real" family members call me to attend the burial next weekend in Kumba. I was surprised, but then assured that, "You are part of the family now, you must come."
When I went to Bamenda to visit my friend Kellen's family, I was again treated as if I was one of their own children. Angel, the young girl who was glued to my hip while I was visiting has invited me to be her 'guest of honor' at her First Communion on the 11th of August. Mama Kellen told me she has just been running around telling everyone about me... I'm looking forward to seeing them again :)
The truth is, there are plenty of people here in Cameroon who are living a comfortable middle class life, but on the contrary, there are plenty of young Cameroonians who are struggling to find a job and struggling to make ends meat. Everyone watches each others back here. Life is a mere roller coaster of good luck and bad luck. There are are times you will be up and there are times you will be down. Everyone acknowledges that and is sure to help those who are down when they are up.
Another thing I've noticed...people don't often 'borrow' money.. they just give and receive with no debts or dues to be paid.
Holiday Season and Wet Season
Primary and Secondary students finished their classes and writing exams towards the end of June. University students have been finishing periodically all month depending on their course and the college they attend.
Buea is definitely what one would call a "student town" or a "university town". In my 'cité' (what they call each apartment complex or compound of rooms) there have been students leaving nearly everyday. I see them with their huge suitcases of belongings heading back home to their respected villages, towns or cities until school starts again in September. It is very much like American students in that sense.
Another things I've observed is the amount of children that are out and about now that school is not in session. What I don't like about this is the 'child labor' I see every second of the day. Even in this cold wet weather, there are scores of child street hawkers selling random things on top of their head. And when I say child I mean aged between 5 years old - 13 years old walking around the crazy city streets alone.
It is raining just about everyday and for pretty much the entire day. Its not a heavy rain, just a drizzle that picks up every now and again. Sometimes there are heavy storms but only once or twice a week. Everything is wet and there is nothing I can do about it. My clothes get moldy, my kitchen is moldy, my bed is getting moldy, my couch feels wet and cold all the time... I'm told this is still the beginning. It is like this for August conscientiously getting heavier and then September time brings the torrential down pours of the wet season.
dis rain go kill me. pota pota de worry me plenty.
This rain is going to kill me. The mud brings me many problems/bothers me a lot.
Southwest Region of Cameroon
Southwest Region of Cameroon
In my Country Profile of Cameroon, I briefly talked about culture and tribes throughout Cameroon. Now that i have been here for over 4 months, I am really learning a great deal about several local tribes. I've got to the point were someone will tell me their 'tribal' name and the region they are from in Cameroon and I just might be able to guess their tribe. It impresses quite a few people (when I am correct) and they are happy to see and meet a foreigner who is so interested in their culture and their country.
Districts/Divisions of the Southwest Region of Cameroon.
Important towns include the capital Buea (where I live), Limbe (a beautiful beach town just about 45min drive), Tiko (about 30-40min on the way to Douala), Kumba (visited in 2011, about 1hour drive) and Mamfe (first major town while driving from Nigeria into Cameroon, visited in 2011).
Map of the Southwest Region.
The Tribes of The Southwest Region
The Bakweri people are found in Fako division. This tribe is known to be very brotherly, most are farmers who sell in the market and they practice rites of healing and initiation in
associations of spirit mediums. I know an official member (all tribes have them, and each tribe has their specifics with initiation and acceptance of members) who told me that Bakwerians can ride elephants from village to village, town to town. Another friend told me they don't stay together in marriage, or in other words they 'separate'...several married couples will have different houses for each spouse. They are also known to do 'double deals' when selling land, they will sell it to a 2nd person if the 1st hasnt started using the land. Watch out...you don't want to see them angry - because they get very angry.
-It is tradition in this tribe, when a woman or man looses her/his spouse - the village/tribe will put a blue cloth on the floor of their house/entrance for 3 days, shave the person's hair on the 3rd day and then the person will wear blue for 9 months (everyday). After that 9 months they shave their hair again and then wear black everyday. The black is for mourning and the length of time it is worn is the choice of the widow/widower.
The Bakossi hail from Kupe-Manegnguba division - the place where you can throw a stone into a lake and the stone will be thrown right back at you. At least that is what nearly everyone tells me. The Bakossi people are known for practicing a lot of witchcraft/black magic. People will go back to their villages after sometime away (maybe for a wedding or funeral), they will be seen as 'an outsider'. When they leave the village to return to their respected cities/towns, they will mysteriously fall ill. Maybe they will have a sore leg but for no reason, the doctor cant figure out why, medicine doesn't work, soon you become crippled and then you will die. They say its witchcraft. I dont not believe that, if you get what I'm saying. Bakwerians tell me that they are also very brotherly.
The Bayangui people are from the Manyu division and their language (aka dialect or local patwa/patwoi) is called Kenyang. They are direct brothers of the Bakweri tribe and to the Nigerians just to their West. They only major differences are the hats that they wear for traditional ceremonies and by the chiefs. There is a lot of belief of reincarnation, specifically with children. For example, if a young baby or child dies, they believe that that baby will be born to the next woman who falls pregnant in the village. Sometimes the baby is even raised knowing that Woman A (the mother who lost her child) is his/her 1st mother and Woman B (who just bore a new baby) is his/her 2nd mother. I have a new Canadian friend here who is doing a Human Rights focused internship focusing on women in the region. She has collected a lot of data about abuses and she mentioned to me that female genital cutting aka FGM and breast ironing are mostly still practiced by the Bayangui tribe. Look at this article on breast ironing in Cameroon. I had a Cameroonian friend totally separate from this conversation tell me the same thing about this tribe. And last by not least...watch out because they are said to be a very revengeful tribe. In Ndian division you can find the Oroko tribe which is also known as the Bakundu tribe (another person said the other name was Barondo so it could be either.) Ekwang is their traditional meal and it's made from cocoyams or cassava, cocoyam leaves, red hot peper, palm oil, spices and some smoked or sun-dried fish/crayfish. I like it. They also keep secrets in their palms and have many mystics about their culture. A Oroko person can whisper something into his palm, shake your hand, and you will do whatever the command was that the Oroko person had said. If you are punched by an Oroko, if you hit the ground, you will not be able to get up until the person's fist has opened up. Finally in the tiny tiny Lebialem division there are the Bangwa. People of this tribe are often reffered to as '99.9%' because they are exceptionally intelligent. Very smart people but supposidly not very giving; they dont like to share. For example, if all of you and your friends are out taking some beers, everyone but you has bought a 'round of drinks', they might say to you, "Boy, what are you? Bangwa?"
The Baforpeople come from Meme division and I wasn't able to get any information...will update it if I find anything!.
Other tribes that friends have mentioned are: Ejagom, Emoko, Apo and Upper and Lower Byam. No one mentioned too much about these tribes, their culture/traditions, or dialect. All I was told is that they are found in Manyu division.
** Disclaimer: This blog is based on my personal experiences in Cameroon and information that has been passed to me. These are all opinions, not facts. I wrote this with NO intention offending anyone. Please inform me privately if you find anything offensive or incorrect. **
Also, if anyone has any additional or contradicting information
07/19/07
Our guides for the safari are Umtimama’s brother Killerai Munka Killerai (aka Killer) and Alexis (aka Alex).
Alex & Killer
Killer drove our car. The 4x4s are awesome! The tops come off! So the farther we got out of Arusha the more Maasai it got! We went to Emborag Village (a small maasai village). The chairman of the village rode in our car! The village as the most Maasai thing I have ever seen in my life. Everyone was wearing the Maasai blankets and colors and the tire sandals like the ones we made. Some had brandings on their faces. When they are about 3 years old they are burnt or tattooed for “decoration”. A lot of them also had huge elaborate earrings in their super stretched out empty/holy ears. This one guy had the bottom of his ear so stretched out he wrapped it around his entire ear!
Village Chairman.
Mother & Baby
Emborag Village
Writing inside the houses
Maasai Children
After playing with the children and exploring their way of life, we drove for a few more hours until we reached our destination. BUT not before spotting our first GIRAFFE! Monica and I tried to get a tan while sitting on top of the 4x4, but that didn't work well because we were constantly dodging African thorn bushes. One of them made Monica bleed.
Ella, Monica, Me and Izzy at camp.
07/20/07
We had to wake up very early today to go on a hike. We climbed this really big beautiful mountain called Mount Emborag. It was hard core- up and down took about 5 ½ hours. On our mountain climbing expedition we had to like rock climb. The view was amazing.
Maasai man who helped guide us up the mountain.
Admiring the vast African plains
We napped after the climb then took a walk and saw baboons and this African hamster looking thing, and another giraffe. We saw a lot of tracks and a lot of animal poop. Then after super we had the Maasai guides do a little "culture night" with us. They told us stories about different hunts they have been on and sang many songs while they showed us how they danced. It was an experience I will never forget.
Maasai men, me, and Monica getting our groove on!
The higher your vertical jump - the better dancer you are.
It was dark so its hard to see the Maasai men dance, but their singing is clear and beautiful :)
In order to become a Maasai Warrior, one must hunt a lion (solo) with nothing but a spear and return with his tail. After much encouragement, one man told us the story behind his battered and deformed looking shin. On this mans attempt at becoming a recognized warrior, the lion began to chase him! He was running so quickly that when his foot went into a pot hole his tibia (shin bone) snapped! But he couldnt stop for the lion would have got to him...so he continued to run to safety. Because of the lack of available health care, the bone heeled in a funny way.
07/21/07
Today I learned that my Maasai name Nemburis means "blessing." How fitting :)
Also, Killer told us that if a male ostrich's neck is pink that means it’s horny.
He looks pretty horny if you ask me...
This is not photo shopped!
07/22/07
Today Killerai told us another interesting animal fact. Lions actually have "honeymoons" and during this week long festivity they mate for approximately 15-20 seconds, every 10min, for a week! They only break to eat, hunt, and sleep.
A lion couple on their honeymoon!
Monica & I on top of the car
Below, I am inside of a tree. This is where poachers used to sit and hunt animals out of. There are still poachers around, but authorities have really cracked down, and the fines are outrageous.
Antelope and Zebra!
Beautiful Tanzanian Sunset
07/23/07 Ok have to pack up from Taraginire National Park and head to the Yaida Valley were we are going to be with a tribe that speaks in CLICK CLICK! Can’t wait. So we just left the park and these boys were trying to sell us huge carcus. Then Kathy bought a fish and they tied to the car and it smells and looks discussing! We had 2 random guys jump on our car but I guess Killer knew them so it was ok.
They just held on for the whole ride!
We are lunch at Magara Waterfall. It was beautiful ...
The ladies after lunch at the waterfall
Today Killer taught us to saySimama Sitalke and Pina hala which respectively means stop, I do not want that and I have no money. It sent beggars away in record time!
We also got to meet the Hadza Tribe briefly today...We went to their village and walked around a bit. They are pretty interesting, I'm looking forward to spending more time with them.
