The End of Another Chapter

I thought it was appropriate to post this at the one year anniversary of my spinal TB diagnosis (remember this: 10 things I learned from a hospital bed in Paris).  This last weekend also marked the last day of my treatment, well - at least the pills I've been taking for the last year. I'm sure the 'treatment' will be for the rest of my life :P

This post marks the end of several chapters. The (roughly) last year in Senegal, the end of graduate school, and the completion of my thesis.

I left Senegal on August 5th and for the next three weeks I slept in 7 states, boarded 5 flights, and met up with some amazing friends and family, many of whom I hadnt seen in 1-2 years. For the time being, I'm living in Idaho Falls with my loving sister Hanna and her wonderful family (thanks!). My final months in Senegal went by way too fast, as they always do. I've noticed that for some reason, even when I know my time is running out, I am never see and do everything I want before I go. I guess that's another reason why I'm never terribly sad when I leave, because I have faith that I will be back.

The last few months, outside of my research, were scattered with music concerts, a bit of travel outside of Dakar, and more exploring inside Dakar city limits.

Îles de la Madeleine - Islands right off the coast of Dakar

Ship wreck at Îles de la Madeleine

Part of the beaches at Popenguine and hour and a half outside of Dakar

In May there was an amazing several week long event called Dak'Art. This event was the 12th biannual event. It started in 1992 as a platform for contemporary art with cultural roots in Africa and aims at being a space of of different prejudice-free visions on approaches and inspirations to analyze in relation to a plurality of influences from both immediate and farther sources. There were light shows, tons of exhibits, and some concerts. In my subjective opinion, the best part of the entire month long extravaganza was the Cheikh Lô and special guest concert.

Literally the best of the best!

 Here is a short clip of some of the performances throughout night:

 As exciting as it was, May was also a sad month as so many of my dear friends left Dakar, including my lovely roommate. This meant I had to leave our beautiful apartment in Liberté 6.

Claire, Brenda, and I soaking up some sun on one of their last days.

The beginning of June was marked by the start Ramadan. As the holy month came to an end, we celebrated Korité (aka Eid al-Fitr) and suddenly it was mid July and I had only a couple of weeks left in Senegal.

Praying during Ramadan

Attaaya (tea) for sale at Marché Sandaga!

I went with a friend on a day trip to Lac Rose. The guides claimed that it was the saltiest lake in the world but I'm not sure. When I visted the Dead Sea I was told that it was the second-saltiest body of water on earth, after Lake Aral in Djibouti.
 Either way, it was a beautiful day!

Going for a ride on the dunes checking out the beach

The lake wasnt particularly pink on this day because it wasnt windy enough.
Apparently its pink when its windy.

For my birthday in June I took a quick trip to Amman, Jordan with a day lay over in Istanbul, Turkey. While waiting in the airport for my flight out of Dakar I saw a very familiar looking man. 

I met Cheikh Ndiguel Lô!!! If you dont know who he is - look him up on youtube!
One of the most famous, world renowned Senegalese musicians!

I cant think or talk about my last few months in Senegal with out talking about sama kër Seck (my Seck family):

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Finishing my M.A. and my research in Senegal was such an epic event. To date, it's definitely my biggest accomplishment. Which obviously wouldn't have been been possibly without my family and friends (and doctors!). I've written extensively on my blog about my research so I wont go into too much detail. I deviated slightly form the original research proposal and during the data collection I wrote three posts detailing the life histories of the six social mobilizers I worked with during the research process (one, two, three).

The star marks the end!

Briefly, this research explores how and why Tostan’s Social Mobilization Agents (SMA) do their work in rural Senegal. Using a grounded theory approach rooted in feminist epistemology, I participated in field observations and conducted several in-depth interviews with six SMAs, two men and four women. By creating individual portraits of their lives, we see them as whole persons made up of unique experiences. After having a close up look at their lives, we take a step back to look at the larger picture and see several reoccurring themes. I saught to answer one major research question: "Why and how do social mobilizers do their work?" and two sub questions: "What are the elements that motivated them?" and "What are the strategies they use in the field?". From this research, academics, practitioners, and a larger global audience will better understand the motives and methods of social mobilizers in rural Senegal today. With these findings, one can continue the quest for more knowledge and/or attempt to replicate the methods of social mobilization elsewhere.

Finally, if that was at all interesting to you, you can read the entire thesis called Motives and Methods of Social Mobilization in Rural Senegal.

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And finally to end with one final (for now) Wolof proverb:

"Réeroo amul, ñàkk a waxtaan a am"

Literal translation: ‘There is no such thing as a misunderstanding; there has simply been a lack of discussion.

Metaphorical meaning: ‘Misunderstandings occur when people do not talk’

The Classic vs The Modern: 2 Cameroonian Mix Tapes

Not all Cameroonian artists - but some serious classics!

Classics -- by classics I mean music and artists that cut through every generation here in Cameroon. In addition to hearing this music being playing in a taxi, at weddings, at funerals, in the night club and at local bars and you also see the young and the old signing and grooving along to these catchy beats. If you like what you hear, I encourage you to check out more of their music via YouTube or iTunes. 

1. Cameroonian Mix Tape (The Classics)

1. Toma Me - Charlotte Dipanda
2. C'est La Vie - Henri Dikongue
3. Muntula Moto - Richard Bona
4. Aye Africa - Manu Dibango 
5. Ganger Ganger - Petite Pays (This song is sung at football matches all the time! Especially the chorus which is sung when Cameroon scored a goal!!) 
6. Amour et Folie - Lady Ponce
7. Topé Malangui Bodé - Baka Beyond
8. To Ndje - Kaïssa
9. Na Ye - Richard Bona, Lisanga Gerald Toto and Lokua Kanza (Yes, technically the second two artists are not Cameroonian, but RB is, and he is amazing and this is personally my favorite song he has done!)
10. Africa - Henri Dikongue
11. Soul Makossa - Manu Dibango
12. Dikom lam la moto - Charlotte Mbango
13. Amour et Passion - Sergeo Polo and Nono Flavy
14. Oke Mado - Kotto Bass 
15. Ayo Africa - Longue Longue*
16. Constitution Constipée - Laprio de Mbanga* (This is actually the song that got him locked up *see note below)

*The last two artists are particularly of interest to me (and maybe you too) because of their courageous and inspiring lyrics. Both of these artists have spoken out about Paul Biya, the President of Cameroon who has been in power for more than 3 decades and both of them have also been imprisoned and forced to seek asylum out of their country. Bravo to them both.

The Modern music of Cameroon has really taken off in the last couple of years. With literally hundreds of young, hip emerging artists it was pretty difficult picking this list. Not to mention, the majority of 'club music' comes from Nigeria not Cameroon.

2. Cameroonian Mix Tape (Modern/Hip Hop)

1. Ebangha - Steveslil (Yes, I am biased because I am in the music video (see photo above) but it is a chart topping  hit and Steve's voice makes you want to melt. Plus, I know him -- and he's a great guy!)
2. B.A.S.T.A.R.D - Jovi ft Reniss (This guy's lyrics are unreal. He mixes English, with Pidgin English, with French, with Franc-Anglais (sort of like French Pidgin) and even several local dialects. Even me, someone who speaks Pidgin fairly well cannot understand his Mboko Pidgin...which is the really deep Pidgin coined by Laprio de Mbanga)
3. Hein Pere - Stanley Enow (This song has actually been being played 24/7 for the last 6-8 months and is finally starting to slightly lose it's popularity. Additionally, only the coolest kids are representing the song by wearing shirts that read "On Est Heir Pere"
4. Thursday Night - Fluri Boys (This is another song that plays ALL the time!)
5. Kumba Market - Magasc
6. Banye aka Banso boy - Chorko
7. Kaki Mbere - Gasha (I have a friend here who used to own a cyber in Buea next to the University. He told me that this girl used to frequent the cyber and often times ask for dash [free] when using the internet..it's nice to see "regular" people make it big.)
8. Don fo Kwat - Jovi (His first and arguably his biggest hit!)
9. MAALHOX - La Biere c'est Combien iCi
10. Njoka - BJ (BJ was my friend before I even knew he was an artist. He co-owns a really popular shisha bar in Buea, Skylight, and that is actually how and where I met him. Then, my housemate at the time Monica saw him preform live and she ran home to tell me... njoka in Pidgin means to enjoy life or to party.) 
11.  Monika - Denzyl

 Remember -- If you like any of these artists, check out more of their music. Cameroon has some serious talent!!

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My blog will be silent for the next couple of weeks as I will be traveling. Serious epic traveling.
First we will be driving along the Ring Road which is just North of Bamaneda in the Northwest Regoin
After reaching Kumbo, we will head to Baffoussam to start a 5 day adventure in the West Region.
Then, onto Douala and to Yaounde wherewe will bus to Bertoua in the East. Yes the East, the most untouched region in the country!!
From Bertoua we will attempt to get to the Dja Reserve where envision trekking through the rainforests of the Congo Baison while encountering endless wildlife and visiting Baka (a Pigmy Tribe) villages along the way.

Am I Running Away? New Inspirations for Research

Since it has been more than 7 months since I moved into my new house here in Buea, I thought I would give everyone a photo tour and update of my house! 

It’s more than a house now, it's become a home.
But now it's missing Monica Montalti.

Living Room/Parlor/Salon

If you take not of the shelves against the back wall – I was quite thrifty and creative when making these. I needed more shelving space for my YAN/teaching documents so I went to a local printing place and collected empty boxes that used to hold paper. I stacked them ontop of each other and VOILA! Shelves! I also plan on making a couple end table and a center coffee table. Dad, aren’t you proud?

That blue chair is the most comfortable chair in the world...

I am still figuring out how I will bring it home.

Kitchin Sink!

Stove with gas and my dishes/pots!

Counter top and shelves of food/spices/dishes/etc

Beautiful bedroom and built in wardrobe

Bathroom

This house is a real upgrade from where I was living in Uganda! The biggest benefit is not only do I have (nearly) constant water flowing from the tap but the water is safe to drink!! Except for the occasional cholera outbreaks…

Here is a blog post I found which nearly perfectly describes me and my lifestyle choices. 

As Matthew says, "I am running away from your idea of the real world." 

After having a lengthy and somewhat heated discussion with a group of my male Cameroonian friends, I've decided to forgoe a bit of qualitative research in my spare time. This research will be focused around the perceived role, status, duties and quote-unquote "worth" of a woman as defined by Cameroonians.

Because I've studied development and because I have 1/4 of my brain working as an anthropologist (or so I would like to think) - all things are relative. We all have our own opinions on what is right and what is wrong, just and unjust, etc. Everyone is entitled to their opinion but its just that - an opinion. You can't make someone believe what you believe - they have to want to believe it regardless of you. You cant tell someone that something they have been doing for centuries is 'wrong' - they have to realize its wrong themselves. You can't try to change people - people need to want to change. It took me sometime to realize these things because I was so gung-ho on "women's rights" "women's empowerment" "gender equality". I was so blinded by my own idea of what the world needs to look like that I forgot there are others living on this planet - other people who have their own opinions for their own reasons.

The discussion which inspired my new research project went something like this --
I was at a very small local bar discussing with 4 Cameroonian male friends, 3 of whom I have known for quite some time.
Somehow they brought up gender roles. These men of course would not label it as that, but it was just that. They are talking about how the woman should be cooking, caring for children and cleaning and how they as men would only cook and clean if their wife is really sick. I tried to remain a fly on the wall because I was so out numbered and I foresaw this conversation going in circles. Sooner or later I chimed in. The discussion lead to "development".

Soon, what they were arguing was pretty much this :
Women are not oppressed here (in Cameroon), therefore you should not be doing anything to change the way it is - but you can and should be changing how women are treated in other parts of the world (eg: Muslim areas, certain traditions that they deem wrong like female genital cutting [FGC], etc). 

They basically argue what I used to argue - if you think its wrong then its wrong and you should try to educate them and change it so that things are what you think they should be. Don't get me wrong, I am all for education, but my questions is - who is right and who is wrong. Because if you ask me honestly - women are oppressed here. Is it wrong? I won't say yes and I won't say no.

Stay tuned.. I am starting to work with my sister Hanna on 

developing a short survey for men/boy and women/girls.

Bill Gates has released his annual letter for the Bill and Malinda Gates Foundation.

Here he argues that the three major myths that block progress for the poor.

1. Poor countries are doomed to stay poor.

    2. Foreign aid is a big waste.

        3. Saving lives leads to overpopulation.

Take a look at what he has to say about this here. 

                   WhAt Do YoU tHiNk??

I found a new amazing African artist!! 

Brenda Fassie  

Brenda was an anti-apartheid South African Afropop singer. She was born in 1964 and died in 2004. Her bold stage antics earned a reputation for "outrageousness". Affectionately called Mabrr by her fans, she was sometimes described as the "Queen of African Pop". Check out her most popular hits here:

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Reason number 52,594 why YOU need to travel: you discover languages which have words that have no direct translation in any other language - they are special words to describe very special things.

This word makes me think of Father, my dear old friend Forrest Smith and Paul Gamache.

Lastly, I would like to send some positivity out to my neighbor, Central African Republic. 

Violence and political unrest has been increasing in CAR since I arrived last year. Thursday January 23rd, Catherine Samba-Panza was sworn in as the Interim President!! Read the full article here.
According to the United Nations, "As peacekeeping has evolved to encompass a broader humanitarian approach, women have become increasingly part of the peacekeeping family." Maybe this is just was CAR needs to obtain the peace its citizens deserve.