"Ramadan Kareem" or "Ramadan Moubarak" are used as greetings during the holy month. |
I started out this month, the holy month of Ramadan,
with every intention of fasting.
Many of you might be thinking...Participating in Ramadan? What is that, what does that mean? Why?
First: What is Ramadan?
Ramadan is the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, a calendar that is lunar based with each month aligning with the phases of the moon and lasting 29 or 30 days. Ramadan is the ninth out of twelve months in the Islamic calendar and its dates change every year (because its based on the moon). This year, although the dates vary depending on your geographical location, Ramadan started June 5th. In Senegal however, it started the 6th and for some the 7th.
Ramadan is the month that Muslims believe the Quran was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad and it is also one of the five pillars of Islam*. During this month, hundreds of millions of Muslims from around the world will participate in a day long fast from sunrise to sunset (or dawn to dusk as some call it) as they have for the last 1,400 years. Many non-Muslims know that this "fasting" means abstaining from food and drinks, technically nothing can pass through your mouth during this time. But what many don't realize is that that is the easy part. Muslims are also expected to abstain from participating in anything that is ill-natured or excessive - this includes refraining from gossip and complaining - this includes avoiding feelings of anger and lust - this includes lying, stealing, cheating, etc.
Now of course Allah is loving and merciful and there are always exceptions to the sunrise-sunset rule of fasting. If you are traveling, sick, or physically incapable of fasting, there are exceptions. If you are a woman who is on her period, you are also exempt. However, you're expected to make this time up later in the year.
Second: Ramadan is different everywhere
In Reykjavík, Iceland, for example, Muslims are expected to fast from 2:13 to 23:50, a total of 21 hours and 37 min of fasting. Then you have cities like Sydney, Austrailia where Muslims only fast for about 11 hours and 28 min. A whole other side of this coin is the heat - although in Islamabad, Pakistan the hours are shorter than in Raykajavik, (3:20-19:22 or 16 hours and 2min), it has been over 40ºC degrees (over 104ºF) every day of Ramadan.
In Dakar, the sunny yet breezy capital of Senegal, Muslims fast for roughly 14 hours with moderate temperatures in the mid 20ºCs (high 70s/low 80s in F).
In some predominately Muslim countries (eg: Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Pakistan), it is deemed illegal to drink or eat in public in and going so can results in deportation, a fine, or jail time. Beyond this legality, there can sometimes be a strong social pressure - so even if you aren't fasting, and there are no laws enforcing you to fast, you may have to act as though you are. On the other hand, China has banned teachers, civil servants, and students in its mainly Muslim Xinjiang region from fasting during Ramadan.
Third: Why? What is the purpose?
For Muslims to educate themselves in spirituality, humility, self-discipline and patience. It is a month to get closer to Allah, cleanse your soul (physically, spiritually and mentally), and practice selflessness. This is also a time to put forward more dedication and time to Allah and the Quran (you can find people reading it more) and put forward more prayers than is customary because, as I've been told, Allah answers more prayers during this holy month.
Fourth: Why me? Why did I want to do this?
Since I spent last summer in Florida participating in the AFLI summer program and preparing for my year in Senegal, I knew I would be in Senegal for Ramadan 2016 and I told myself I was going to observe it while there. Last summer I fasted every Friday (the holiest day of the week) just to see what it was like - and even that one day a week was quite a challenge.
I wanted to fast because I also can benefit from the many purposes I listed above. Namely, abstaining from "bad thoughts and temptations" and self-control, which can be transferred into many aspects of life and overall help me become a better human. Although many Muslims use the month to get closer to Allah, I wanted to use the month to get closer to myself. Instead of praying five times a day, I had planned to meditate five times a day. And yes, I also wanted to fast in solidarity. I am living in a predominantly Muslim country and I knew many of my friends and colleagues would be fasting as well, so I thought - why not!?
Ramadan 2016 Highlights:
As I counted down until the start of Ramadan, the weeks quickly turned into days and I wondered how to "prepare" myself. Turns out, after asking several of my friends, there isn't much preparation at all. The month comes and you fast, it's as simple as that. Or is it...
I had the opportunity to be in not one, not two but three predominantly Muslim countries during the month of Ramadan. I would like recount some of the most memorable events.
First thing's first, wolof vocabulary:
Koor: Ramadan (eg: Naka koor gi? - How is Ramadan?)
Metti: to hurt (ie: koor dafa metti wala yalla baax na - Ramadan, its painful but Allah/God is good)
Woor: to fast (eg: Yangiy woor? Waaw, mangiy woor. - Are you fasting? Yes, I am fasting)
Sukraa Koor: literally means "Ramadan Sugar" but is the name of any and all gifts given during the holy month (eg: Ana sama sukraa koor? - Where is my Ramadan sugar?)
Ndogu: Iftar (in Arabic) or break fast. (eg: Kaay ndogu - come and break fast)
Wori: to break fast (at the end of the month, not daily)
Korité: Eid (in Arabic), holiday that marks the end of Ramadan
The first week of Ramadan was relatively easy for me. I was in the office a lot around other who were fasting and kept myself quite busy. A friend of mine once told me that having ndogu alone was like waking up Christmas morning alone. I appreciated the vivid and strong metaphor, but because I have indeed working up on Christmas morning alone, I wasn't afraid of breaking fast alone either.
Usually, those who are fasting will wake before dawn to drink plenty of water and eat one meal known as the Suhoor. I did this sometimes, but not always. Before dusk everyone will gather for Iftar (break fast) which is at sunset and locally known as ndogu. This is true for practically all Muslims but how people prepare and do Iftar usually varies.
In Senegal, the minuets leading to ndogu are spent preparing the meal. The second you hear the muezzin begin the Adhan (call to prayer), you break the fast with a date (because this is what Mohammad did). Some people prefer to pray first and then break fast. I'm not sure why, but I've been told you must have an odd number of dates. Next is the hot drink (eg: coffee, hot chocolate, hot milk, etc) and a sandwich. Depending on your preference and your income, your sandwich will have butter, cheese spread, sliced cheese, sausage, beans, peas, hard boiled eggs or a number of other things. Most traditionally I have seen butter, sliced cheese, and sausage. Afterwards, you can drink some water - but not too much, you need to save some room to eat more! The women of the house will disappear and begin to cook the large meal of the evening which will be served after Isha'a, the last evening prayer. This meal could be a number of different things, ceebujen, yassa yapp, salad with friends and chicken, etc etc.
My ndogu one night when I broke fast alone. It wasnt too depressing, dont worry. |
As the first weekend of Ramadan came, I woke up with a massive head ache and feelings super weak and dehydrated -- I decided to break fast for the day. The following day I had a guilty conscious and felt as though I had "failed" already. I tucked these feelings away and got back in the routine of fasting. I cheated again by drinking coffee one morning and another day by drinking water. Before I knew it, I had altogether stopped fasting. However, I kept the spirit of Ramadan and I've learned a lot this last month.
As I've mentioned in previous posts, salutations and greetings are of the utmost importance here in Senegal and this holds even more true during this holy month. During Ramadan there is a familiar exchange added to salutations:
Person A: Baal ma aq - Forgive me (for all of my sins, everything I have done)
Person B: Baal naa la - I forgive you
Person A: Yalla nañu yalla boole baal - Allah has assembled us together and forgives us all
Person B: Amen - its optional to say Amen several times
In addition, departures are extra long as everyone is saying prayers for one another and their families. As I mentioned, I was told Allah answers more prayers during the holy month so its seems like people are constantly praying for one another and always followed by repetitive "amens". Its beautiful! My favorite (or maybe the only one I've learned) is "Yalla nañu yalla sàmm" meaning, "may God protect us"
Having a later dinner of yassa ginaard (chicken) after ndogu at a friends house |
I wasn't able to capture my own photo of this wonderful break fast event of sharing but these two photos are amazing and both belong to @ricci_s - check out her Instagram for more photos. |
Generally throughout the month, shops opened a little bit later, people moved a little slower, and shops usually closed for ndogu. Sometimes they would open back up, but usually you would have to wait until the next day. Although almost 96% of the population is Muslim, life carries on. You can still find people selling sachets of water in the middle of traffic under the hot sun (even though its highly likely they themselves are fasting), and people are still selling food on the road side for those who aren't fasting. It's really no big deal.
Ramadan in Turkey
Although I was only here for a day, less than 24 hours in fact, I feel like I was able to thoroughly enjoy the city. According to the CIA World Factbook, Turkey is Muslim 99.8% Muslim and if I wasn't already aware of the month of Ramadan, I dont think I would have actually noticed it going on. Sadly I wasnt able to break fast and participate in iftar while in Turkey, maybe one day I will have the opportunity.
Outside of the Blue Mosque aka the Sultan Ahmed Mosque |
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Inside of the Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) |
As I said, business and life seemed to go on as usual, at least in the capital, Istanbul. I saw tourist and locals alike wearing an array of different types of clothing - from short shorts to niqabs and everything in between. Nothing seemed to be running on "Ramadan time"
Ramadan in Jordan
Things were much different in Jordan for the month of Ramadan. The official working hours change from 10am-3pm, and you can often times find people arriving later and leaving earlier than those changed hours. Additionally, some people straight up dont work - they take vacation or completely close up their shop. For example, the Christian alcohol shop owners (only Christians can sell booze) are not allowed to sell alcohol during the month, even at night. The CIA World Factbook says Jordan is 98% yet the main difference here is - Jordan's religions enter directly into their state affairs. It is even illegal to eat or drink in public during Ramadan until the sun sets.
Again, sadly, I was not able to participate in iftar there but I had a good friend of mine give me the 4-1-1 on it. In his words: "There are different traditions here: some people prepare many types of food and sit down and wait for Maghre (the evening prayer at sun set when you break fast), other people go to the Mosque for praying and to read Quran before Maghre. Once Maghreb has come, they eat dates, drink water, do Maghreb Prayer in the mosque then go back to their homes and have Iftar. Its Sunnah (the verbally transmitted record of the teachings) to break your fast with dates and water or yogurt, thats why most people do that. On the table there will be different types of food like Meat, chicken, salads , soups and rice. There are also drinks like lemonade and sweet things, we mainly prefer qatayef (an Egyptian origin traditional dessert that is similar to a dumpling and popular mostly during Ramadan) stuffed with white cheese, coconuts with almonds, and some times Nutella."
The end of the holy month of Ramadan is capped with "Eid-ul-Fitr"
AKA the Festival of the Breaking of the Fast.
Here in Senegal, this holiday is called Korite.
Check back soon for an update all about it!
Ci suba, nungiy korite, inshallah
Tomorrow, we are celebrating Eid-ul-Fitr, God willing.
One of the best surprises of the month...
My "sister" had her baby...
A Ramadan blessing!
Welcome to the world little one, Babacar Pierre Seck :) |
Disclaimer: I write this piece on Ramadan as a non-Muslim only sharing my experiences and what I have learned from Muslims and other non-Muslims. I do not speak on behalf of anyone. If you feel like I have misrepresented something, please leave a comment. If you feel like I have forgotten something important, please leave a comment. Remember, I am only human and I am still learning :)
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