Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

Thursday, April 7, 2016

Weru yaram ak jamm: health and peace


Having already gone into the field to conduct my first interview for my research on Tostan's Social Mobilization Agent (SMA), I was feeling much less nervous leaving my house for my second and third interview. Instead of driving back and forth two more times to the Fatick region, my interpreter (Cherif Ndiaye) and I decided to do two interviews in the same day. We had arranged for one of the SMA to meet at another team member’s house. And sure enough, the four of us found ourselves in Diyabougou Village before noon.

Diyabougou is in the Fatick Region of Senegal and the journey started very similar to the first interview in Soudiane with Marième a few days before. However, instead of taking a car to Nguéniène, we took one directly from Mbour to Diyabougou. 
The door on the left was where we held the two interviews
After taking time to greet every member of Mariétou Diarra’s family, Sidy Cissokho, Cherif, Mariétou, and myself took shelter from the unrelenting sun and met in Mariétou’s room. We all congregated on a bamboo mat covered by a sheet on the cement floor. I introduced myself and explained my research; Cherif took over to be sure there was full understanding. Since Sidy traveled to come to the interview, it made sense to interview him first.

Sidy Cissokho, who is now about 56 years old, described his personality growing up as “someone who put the ambiance wherever they went – always said and did things that made people laugh and be happy.” Through his sincere smile, excessive use of hand jesters, and animated story telling, I could tell that much of this trait had carried through to adulthood.

Sidy Cissokho
Sidy is originally from Malicounda, coincidentally host of the the first Inter-Village Public Declaration in Senegal agreeing to abandon the traditional practice of female genital cutting (FGC) way back in 1998. But this declaration didn't come easily. Both Malicounda and Samba Diallo, Sidy’s present village, denied Demba Diawara and Tostan at first. In the past, villages were uncomfortable talking about many of Tostan’s themes, notably FGC, as this was something very private and something they felt very strongly about. Although Tostan still experiences resistance to their program it is much less than in the past.

Sidy started organized diffusion efforts in 2006, a couple of years after he had finished Tostan’s three-year Community Empowerment Program. He said the most important thing about being a Social Mobilization Agent (SMA) was “respect” followed by “patience and flexibility”. 

In the past, many villages in Senegal were strictly one ethnic group or another, segregated if you will (not by force but more by tradition). Today, you will see many villages that have several Wolof families alongside Serere and Bambara families. When mobilizing, this can complicate things as not every ethnic group has the same practices and traditions. To compensate for this, the mobilizers will often do one day of sensitization with the entire community discussing issues pertinent to everyone (hand washing, STIs, HIV/AIDS, etc) and then the following day they will discuss issues around FGC with only those groups who practice the tradition. This is to avoid judgment from other community members, shame, etc.

I asked Sidy if he could describe what an SMA was. His response:
To make people aware of how they can have a better living.

Initially, my first thoughts after that were:
1. Well, that doesn't sound like an easy job.
2. Definitely not your typical job description.

I asked him what the overall goal of the Social Mobilization Agents was. Why they do their work, what they want to accomplish? His reply was simple and something even I, with my very limited Wolof, could understand: Weru yaram ak jamm – health and peace. 

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The story of Mariétou Diarraw started with a tragedy in her native village of Kobongoye. The day before her Ngante**, her father died. After this, their family moved to Soudjane Dialla where she grew up. She explained to me that traditionally in her family, girls waited at least until 15 years of age to get married but because she had so many marriage proposals (14 to be exact), she was married at the age of 13 and had her first child two years later.

Mariétou Diarra
Before she was married, her childhood revolved around the rainy season. During rainy season, she would go to the field to help with the rice, millet, and groundnuts as the main occupation in this area and in the village was and still is farming. In the dry season, she was helping out around the house, always in preparation for the next rainy season.

Mariétou says that she learned what it meant to be a ‘good woman’ in two different contexts. First, she learned about this when she went through the tradition** as a young girl and secondly from her mother growing up. In my subjective opinion, as a white feminist American woman, gender roles here in Senegal and in many parts of Africa are still quite rigid.***

I asked her a little bit about family dynamics. Who made decisions in the family and how? She told me that it was always her father who would make decisions. Sometimes he would tell her mother the decision that was made, sometimes not. But she did add that he would “always consult his younger brother before making a decision.” According to Mariétou, it was Bambara (her ethnic group) tradition that the men made the decisions. If a woman was consulted it was a sign of weakness. She gave me an example explaining that it was common for wives to hear something like, “Your daughter was married last Saturday and tomorrow she will move with her husband.”

After 15 years of marriage, when Mariétou was 28 years old, her husband passed away. After the traditional mourning period (traditionally in Senegal about 40 days) she was remarried to her husband's younger brother. This tradition, marrying a younger brother, is a testimony the importance and value of family here in Senegal. Marriage is often seen mainly as a tool to ensure security (food, clothing, shelter, etc) and Mariétou's in-laws took her in to make sure her and the children were taken care of.

Shortly after this, around the age of 30, she started her classes with Tostan. She was keen on oral communication and began to excelle in this domain. When the classes first started in her community, they had to have separate classes for men and women because the men were “too proud” to learn alongside the women. It would have been shameful. But she was happy to explain that as the classes went on, the men were more and more open to being with the women in such settings and by the end of the three-year program, the classes were together.

According to Mariétou, Social Mobilization Agent’s job is:
“Awareness raising to people who do a tradition that has harmful consequences. Tostan is no forbidding it; we are only bringing the information. The role is awareness raisings and information sharing.” 

The purpose of their work is to: 
"Promote children’s rights and protection.” 

Roughly 94% of Senegal is Muslim and Mariétou confirmed that the work she was doing was indeed religious work because “Islam protects children.

As we got more into the nitty-gritty of her work, she explained that the selection of villages for sensitization begins by collaborating with the President of the Rural Community who gives the SMAs a list of villages that are still practicing the tradition. From here, the SMAs work with Tostan regional offices and their supervisors to select from the list and then make a plan of action. After this, the teams will go from village to village sensitizing willing community members on themes around health and human rights.

When I asked her about how this work made her feel, she thanked God a lot, repeating the Wolof phrases “sant yàlla” and “yàlla bu baax bu baax” meaning, thank god and good is very very good respectively. Shortly after this question, the interview came to an end.

Mariétou and the kids
Her daughter-in-law, Fatou, playfully cornered me in the room we had been interviewing in to test my Wolof skills. She wouldn't let me ask Cherif for help and quizzed me on my knowledge of salutations, Senegal, cooking, and my family. After I told her I could make white bissap juice (which is traditionally only used for cooking ceebu jen), she was surprised and told me that next time I come to visit I have to bring her some juice.

This day of interviews was interesting for me as I am trying to manage wearing 'two hats' as so to speak. I am an academic researcher working on my Master’s thesis but I am also a curious young woman trying to better understand Senegal and its wonderful people. Already, with only three interviews under my belt, I notice a stark difference between the male and female responses in reference to their childhood.

One thing I found to be unfortunate and frustrating is the lack of funding and support of these programs in the international development world. Mariétou laughed as she told me that in the past Tostan had to recruit villages for classes, but not there are so many villages asking for Tostan’s Community Empowerment Program and there isn’t enough funding to provide the classes. 

One of the boys from the compound came into the room during the interview to get some water from the calabash.
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* Ngente – baby naming ceremony that many people (yes including Muslims) will call a “baptism”. Traditionally, this was a family event organized, run, and attended by mostly women (with the exception of very closely associated men, like a father or brother) but now-a-days they are more open to men. Especially in Dakar where culture and tradition changes faster than other places.

** “The tradition” refers to Female Genital Cutting or FGC. This is the ritual removal of some or all of the external female genitalia. It is practiced throughout the world but mostly in African and Asian countries. It is practiced for various reasons (religious, traditional and cultural beliefs, etc) and in varying degrees. Tostan’s programs have had huge success in cutting back the rates of FGC in Senegal and surrounding countries where they also have programs.

*** This is not to say that the US or other parts of the world have achieved equality or zero pressure to conform to socially constructed ideals of what it means to be a woman or a man. Yes, I believe that to a certain extent gender roles are becoming less strict but the patriarchy runs deep and we nowhere near a “post-gender norms” society.


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Wolof Proverb:

“Benn loxo du tàccu”

Literal translation: "one hand cannot clap"
Meaning: "It takes two to tangle" 


 Up and coming posts:
1. Kolda Field Observations and Travel
2. Serere Cultural Festivities in Notto/Thiès

Monday, March 28, 2016

Xol bu sedd: a cold heart


Baobab Tree in Soudiane Village, Fatick, Senegal
According to ancient Chinese philosopher and writer Lao Tzu, “The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” But in my case, it began with one tata (form of local transport), tata number 31 to be exact. After reaching the Gare Routiere Des Baux Maraichers in Pikine (the spot to find a sept-place going just about anywhere), my interpreter Cherif Ndiaye and myself found each other and piled into a sept-place (a 7-passenger car aka station wagon) heading to Saly for 1,000cfa.

We went about 500 meters before the police stopped us. The driver stepped out of the vehicle to discuss and after 5min, everyone ended up getting out of the taxi. Apparently, the driver didn't have the right documents and wasn't supposed to be driving. These are the sort of “hiccups” that used to really bother me as I expected everything to be a certain way – but this time, I wasn't even phased, no one complained, everyone just headed back to the garage to take another car. Before I knew it, we were on the road to Saly.

From Saly we took a clando (very old beat up car that has set routes for its passengers) to Mbour (100cfc). From the garage in Mbour we took another sept-place to Nguéniène for 900cfc. By the time we reached this village, it was afternoon and time for prayers*. While I waited for my interpreter to come back from the mosque, I hung out inside a small restaurant and used my limited Wolof to chat with a woman as we peeled garlic cloves. She tried to persuade me to marry her brother, but I wasn't convinced. 

Cherif as he heads to the mosque in Nguéniène
From here we traversed across the flat, yet bumpy, barren landscape deeper into the interior of Senegal heading to Soudiane Village, Madam Marième Bamba was waiting for us.  

As the hot air further tangled my hair and there wasn’t a cement building as far as the eyes could see, I felt more content than I had in several weeks. Sometimes The bustling city of Dakar is too much for this small town Wisconsin native.

The road we were on stopped being a road and was more of a sand path which weaved between bushes and trees. Even Google Maps showed us in the middle of nowhere. We came upon small villages and just to be sure, the driver, Boubou Tall, verified we were heading in the right direction. Although I speak very little Wolof, I manage to understand quite a bit, especially through nonverbal communication. Even he wasn't exactly sure where we were heading.

Finally, we had made it! Upon arrival, we quickly greeted the entire family, which was spread throughout the large compound doing various daily chores and activities. Lunch was waiting for us, Marième had prepared ceebu ganar, rice with chicken. After some small talk, greetings, and a short introduction of me and the research I was doing, my first interview was underway.

Some of Marième's family eating and sorting through groundnuts.
The purpose was to get a better idea of who exactly Marième Bamba was, where she came from, how she got to where she was, and most importantly, her work with Tostan as a Social Mobilization Agent.

Dressed in a colorful boubou, Marième recounted her childhood to us, first sharing with us that she went to do the tradition** at the age of 8 and was married at the age of 12, against her will. One Saturday her Uncle came to her and said, “Next Monday you will be married.” She explained that in their culture, your father’s brother was like your father and therefore, he was able to tell her and not ask her.

It is tradition in Senegal that after a marriage, the woman (or girl in some cases) moves to the husband’s village, very rarely do husbands move to the wives village. She explained that when you “join your husband” sometimes your family would place a thrash-belt into your luggage so that your husband can keep you in line. She said this was something more common in the past but still seen today.

Marième remained smiling and laughing while sharing all
of these stories with us.

Truly a resilient and optimistic woman.
So at the age of 12, Marième was married to a Marabout*** and for the next several years she traveled around Senegal living in several cities as her husband worked. She gave birth to two boys before she divorced the husband at age 16. One of the children**** had died and the husband took the other without her permission and moved him to Mali – she has only seen him twice since then. She was married again two years after that and had four children (lost one) with her new husband, who she is still married to.

Shortly after Demba Diwara came to her village and sensitized the community on themes around Tostan’s curriculum (back in the mid to late 1990s), the classes started in her community and she enrolled. But soon, all of the participants had dropped out of the classes and Tostan was on the verge of leaving the community due to lack of interested. Having never attended formal school, she was worried about missing an opportunity to finally get some sort of education. Marième took matters into her own hands: she went around door to door in an attempt to convince and motivate her community members to attend the classes. She was very successful. After this, Tostan chose Marième to be one of five Social Mobilization Agent (SMA) for the Fatick region, and the rest is history.

We took a pause after about 90min of questions and story telling. Marième removed a metal plate from the top of a large calabash in the corner of the room. She offered water to Cherif and I. Although I drink Dakar water, I was warned about “village water”…I took my chances anyways. So far so good.

I am particularly interested in the work of the SMA because their method social change, or social mobilization, is much different than what we have historically seen around the world. Usually, we see one figure leading a large movement of social change that happens rather quickly. Take for example Martin Luther King or Mahatma Gandhi. These people were very well known and received celebrity status for their work. Here we have the opposite: not only are the SMAs working as a team but they are relatively unknown outside of their own communities. This slow yet impactful change is what Tostan is calling “generational change”.

I asked Marième to tell me about how being a SMA made her feel. As I said, my Wolof is limited, but I was able to pick up “xol bu sedd”. In English, this means “a cold heart” which may at first sound like a bad thing. On the contrary, in Wolof culture, it is one of the best feelings you can have. This is said about something that touches you deeply – something that makes you feel good all the way to your core, to your heart.

For Marième the objective of her work is simple: she wants to see an end to FGC (female genital cutting) in Africa. I also asked her about why the SMAs work in teams. Through translation she replied, “Because we complete each other.” She recounted a story about one time the team went to sensitize a village that did not welcome them nor their educational agenda. They accused the SMAs of being paid and wouldn't even gather for a village meeting to hear what they had to say. The team traveled a long distance to get to the village and had to spend the night sleeping in front of a small shop on the street. When in remote villages, there are no hotels, hostels, places to stay – usually SMA stay with village members but in this case, they weren't so lucky. They waited until sunrise to take a horse drawn carriage to the next village. Despite all of this, the team remained positive. They stuck together, and continued their work of organized diffusion.

She stressed the importance of being flexible and patient while working as a SMA, never forgetting the objective. She stated, “Whatever happens, it’s worth it in the end.” When asked about looking towards her hopes for her daughter’s future, she focused on education and explained that she wanted to make sure that her daughters got the kind of education she was never able to get.

After taking a family portrait, I was given a tour of the family compound and offered some attaaya. Night was coming quickly. We said our goodbyes and were on our way back to Dakar. 

Marième Bamba and Family

During the long drive back, Cherif and Boubou were discussing in Wolof, which allowed for time for ample reflection on this interview and my research. 

The landscape of baobab trees and unaccompanied children 
playing as the sun was setting made for a scenic ride home.

Landscape on our drive to and from the village
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* Senegal is about 95% Muslims. Islam is based on five pillars, one of which says they are to pray five times a day. Depending on where you are globally and the time of the year, these times change. Currently, here in Senegal prayer times are: 05:57 (suba or fajar), 13:15 (tisbaar), 16:34 (takusaan), 19:22 (timis), and 20:29 (gee). Not sure why (I will look into it), but tisbaar seems to be the most important.

** “The tradition” refers to Female Genital Cutting or FGC. This is the ritual removal of some or all of the external female genitalia. It is practiced throughout the world but mostly in African and Asian countries. It is practiced for various reasons (religious, traditional and cultural beliefs, etc) and in varying degrees. Tostan’s programs have had huge success in cutting back the rates of FGC in Senegal and surrounding countries where they also have programs.

*** A marabout is many things. He (rarely she) is a spiritual leader or guide who is sometimes believed to have the ability to see events in the future, give prescriptions on how to protect oneself from the evils of the world (known as gris-gris), and help people attain certain goals in their life. They are sometimes seen more as a sort of doctor and less of a spiritual leader and other times they are purely someone who follows and teaches the Quran. A piece in the NY Times does a great job telling a story about his experience with one type of marabout in Mali. This is definitely a topic I will write more about in another blog post as a paragraph isn’t enough.

**** When counting your children in Wolof culture you never call them children. Doom in Wolof means son or daughter but you will never ask how many children a person has, or tell someone how many children you have by using the word doom. You will call them banti maam yalla, which literally translates to “God’s bits of wood” Why? Because people are worried that if they count their children and call them children that something bad will happen, notably evil spirits will come to possess and kill the child. In Senegal, and in many parts of Africa, there is a very strong appreciation for and fear of the spiritual world. This is something that is very hard for many foreigners to understand and is at times even ignorantly mocked by them. Don't do this. Do not write off what you do not know and understand. “God’s bits of wood” is also the name of a book written by Ousmane Sembène (arguably the most famous Senegalese author and film director). I have yet to read the book but I’m sure its great, it's a Senegalese classic!

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And finally to end, as promised, another Wolof proverb:


"Jàngi na nuyoo"

Literally: "She went to learn how to greet"

Greetings are so important in Senegal and Wolof culture that you must do them pretty much before doing or ask anything. The proverb above is the answer you might get if you ask for someone without first greeting the person to whom you are asking the question.


In the next few weeks, you can look forward to:
1. More personal stories on Social Mobilization Agents;
2. My trip to Kolda for field observations, including a village sensitization visit;
3. A cultural festival in Thiès!