Festivities in Bakwelle Village

Sorry for the delay...

I was rocked pretty hard with malaria. 

It really wipes you out.

Mentally&Physically.

Dance like no one is watching

From pregnant mamas to old paps, babies, toddlers teens and everyone in between: everyone dances here. No matter how old or how young, where you are, what you are doing, what music is playing... nothing matters - just dance. I think that's why everyone dances so good, because they have been feeling rhythm and dance moves since they were in the womb. I remember watching a voodoo ceremony in Benin in 2011, there was this mama dancing ferociously around a fire with her baby strapped onto her back with a loin cloth...I remember thinking, "Wow, that baby is going to be a great dancer when it is older." Coming from a culture that is much more reserved in its dancing practices, it's a really beautiful thing here to see such a variety of people dancing so freely.. not embarrassed that they might be dancing "pooly", not worried that they are literally the only person dancing in a room - they are simply loving life and moving to the groove.

Another thing that is quite different when it comes to the dancing culture here is Cameroonians love watching themselves dance. In nearly all of the night clubs/bars/cabarets there are huge mirrors where people will stand and dance by themselves in front of the mirror, just watching themselves. At first I found it a bit odd, but to each their own, right? My friend told me that the main reason there are mirrors in the clubs is not for people to watch themselves dance, but to ward off spirits. If a spirit comes to the club, once he/she sees the mirrors, they will leave. A spirit cannot see his/her own reflection and the mirror and that means they cannot stay in the club.

Spirits and ancestors are very much alive here -

 they are part of everyday life.

Bride Price

My whole life I've read about the negatives of bride price, how it objectifies the woman, makes them out to be some sort of possession or object to buy/sell/own and I've openly opposed it. Until now. Tradition is such a beautiful thing and a wedding wouldn't be what it is without hearing the pig squealing in agony as it is on its way to get slaughtered the morning after the wedding. I don't see it so much as a 'purchasing a woman' anymore - its much more about tradition. At least here anyways.

I was told that my future husband should give to my father: 4 full grown pigs, 3 goats, 50 liters of palm oil, 50 liters of palm wine and 1 million cfc ($2,000USD). Not bad ey, Dad?

Libation

I first came across this practice when I went to a Bakossi wedding in Douala with my co-worker and friend Delegate (aka Max). There was some sort of figure in the middle of the room. People were dancing, giving speeches and pouring palm wine on top of it. I was a bit confused but just snapped photos and went with it.

Last week in Mamfe, I watched a friend pour his beer into a glass. I watched him over-pour as the beer 'head' spilled over the top and all over the table. I wish I could say that was the first time I saw that but I see it all the time. I consistently see Cameroonians over-pour their drinks and spill them all over. I always think "What a mess! Watch what you're doing. What poor judgement of how much to pour" among other things. As I watched him, I just started to laugh out loud. He says "why yu di laugh so?" (why are you laughing like that). I said to him "Why don't you stop sooner so you don't make a mess?" He explained to me that when you purposely over-pour a drink to spill, its libation for your ancestors.

I've been renamed. Twice:

Bayangi name = Nsunsu (pronounced: nn sue sue)

Bakossi name = Ebude Mbulle (ay boo day mm boolay)

New addition to the bucket list

-Open bottle with teeth. Only true Cameroonians do this... aka ALL Cameroonians do this...I just hope I don't break my tooth - not too sure how good the dentists are here.

Welcome to Bakwelle Village

Upon arrival we greeted the family we were staying with (My friend Sarah's host family is from the village) and started to walk to the football field to watch the match.

 

In all honesty, I did't watch more than 5min of the football game... I was much too distracted by the adorable children running around me playing and begging for my attention!

This boy has got his poses down!

After the match we strolled back to the house and just passed time with the family and many others in the village. There is only one "store" (if you could call it that) in the village and it is owned by the family and located right at the front of their yard. Because of this, the compound made for a very lively location where people frequently passed by to get a beer, buy some sweets, or just to visit. There were many people around after dark and I was practicing my pidgin with a few of the local mamas. They were quite impressed (...or maybe it was more amused), especially after I told them that I was a Bakossi woman with the name Ebude.

The following morning, Saturday, there was a 'marathon' for the men and women of the village. There was about a total of 20 participants and half of them were barefoot! After the running event we had a lot of time to waste until the 'cultural festivities' started in the afternoon...so we strolled...

"Take my snap!!" "Show me! Show me!"

 

He is making his own chair!

We met in the community hall around 4pm and the activities commenced.

The audience...

Coca cola+wine = drink for the guests

Women's cultural dance

"TAKE A SNAP!" (during the award giving)

This little gal would not leave my arms, I left go and she
just clung to me like a koala bear in a tree.

Enjoy this video of the cultural festivities...

After the festivities we went to Mamfe for a bit of live music and dancing.

The next morning we were on our way to Bamenda and then on the bus back to Buea.

View driving from Mamfe to Bamenda

Little did I know, I had contracted malaria during this wonderful visit.

Jungle Road: 2011 vs. 2013
Ikom, Nigeria to Mamfe, Cameroon 

When I was in Cameroon in 2011 we crossed from Nigeria into Cameroon via the epic and infamous 'jungle road'. There were pot holes the size of our truck. We would literally drive in and out of the pot holes - if it was wet season, there is no way we would have passed through that way. There was rumor that the Chinese were going to pave the road. They have interest in doing that because they export a lot of Cameroon's timber.

When we were in Bakwelle, I was able to see the transformation first hand... I didnt even recognize the road until I friend pointed and said "if you keep going that way, you will hit the Nigerian boarder".

Left is Nigeria - Right is to Mamfe

Bakossi Police Man
We left Mamfe towards Bamenda in a shared taxi. As usual - 3 in the front (including driver) and 4 in the back. We were stopped at a road block for at least 30 min because our driver didnt have 'proper documents'. Just around the time I was about to jump on the next passing bus, the police let him go. At the next stop, all of us, the passengers, were asked for ID. Without hesitation I handed him my certified photocopy of my passport and visa. He looked at the front. Tuned it around. Looked at the back and said, "This has expired,  step out of the car" - All I could think was ...great, now I'm the hold up. We walked over to the shack of a police office on the side of the road to discuss further with his other police colleagues. He was confused... I was issued a 6-month visa in January so he thought it expired in June. I explained to him that I didnt enter the country until March 10th meaning it doesn't expire until September 10th. After he realized his mistake, his colleague noticed something else. "This document is expired! Certified documents are only good for 3 months in Cameroon. You must get them re-certified after 3 months! This is not valid!" This is true, this is something I had been told before but never really listened to because I didn't see it affecting me. "We will have to take you down to the main office." He says in a stern voice... I was not about to get brought in by the police, so I started to talk my way out of it "Abeg sir, a no no me. dey no tell me at police station" - They look shocked from my Pidgin, "What nationality are you!?" I reply, "a bi Bakossi woman, ma name na Ebude" (Bakossi is a tribe here) "No, what county are you from?" "a komot fo Amerika" He looks pleased, "And you are already speaking our language here!? You say you are Bakossi, that means you are my sister!" I look at his name tag, it's a Bakossi name. I say in his dialect "Chang makem" He looked even more surprised and give me a traditional handshake and replied "Makem makem boyum" He told me that I could go because I spoke his dialect.
Thankfull I got out of that mess! But, no worries. I went straight to the Buea Police Station and applied for my residence permit - now I am half Cameroonian for real! And, with this permit, I can go and come as I please for 2 years!!

Work, School, NGO, etc
Work with YAN starts in 1 week. I've been in contact with the previous fellows who worked last year and have been getting some good insight! I am so excited to begin working! Please see my fundraising page and donate what you can.

I am still doing things here and there for Green Cameroon. They just launched their September fundraiser on GlobalGiving. Check it out HERE.

The curriculum I was doing through Ompraksh EdGE has been finished for some time now, but my capstone thesis is creeping up on me. That will need to be finished by the end of the month.

I have this crazy idea of teaching a "CV/resume and cover letter/letter of motivation" class for students here. I've been speaking with several students (Buea is mostly comprised of students) and all of them complain about their lack of knowledge pertaining to CVs, resumes and letters involved in applying for a job. I don't know where I would teach, where I would advertise, how much I would charge (everyone says that if I dont charge no one will take it seriously), or when it would be... but its just an idea I have.

Rainy Season
The season is still wet, but its has been changing... it doesnt rain 24/7 now - we will have torrential down pour followed by overcast or even sun. It's not too bad! But, I am really looking forward to the sun and dry season!!

Cameroonian Football
Tomorrow, I am hopefully crossing off another thing on my bucket list - Cameroon plays Libya in a World Cup qualifier. Went to the market today to get my jersey, leaving at 6am tomorrow morning for Yaounde...wish me luck!! Hope the crowd isn't too crazy, I hope they win, and most of all - I hope it doesn't rain!! Look for me on TV!!

Trans West Africa: Nigeria and Cameroon

Nigeria
The worlds most corrupt country yet it's full of the worlds most beautiful people.
We anticipated trouble at the border, and we were right! Instead of entering near Lagos and having to drive through Africa's largest city, we took a more northern route and went through a much smaller border town. The officers accused all of us of having fraudulent Nigerian Visas and said that they were not in order. My visa said that it was valid for entry until Dec 10th which was the day we entered. I noticed this date while in Bamako, Mali and went to the Nigerian embassy there. They assured me that I would be able to enter on Dec 10th but not a day after. But, the officers at the border told me that it had expired. There was no getting around this one. After sitting in the dingy border crossing station, I was summoned by a few officers. They told me I had to talk to their commander. Alone, I followed them down a dark hallway, out of the building and through some tall grass. We entered a house, it was the commander's house. He was sitting on his couch, in his whitey-tities, watching television. I was mortified and terrified. As I sat small in a chair I began to think of all the things that could happen to me. My mind raced. He asked me, "What seems to be the problem miss?" I went on to explain the trouble I was having...my visa entry date says Dec 10th, I double checked at the Nigerian embassy in Mali to make sure it was valid. He then asked me to stay with him and be his friend, I politely declined. After a bribe of $30 and a paper beaded necklace from Uganda, I was allowed to enter the country. The rest of the group for the OK to enter, and we drove on to Abeokuta on the Ogun River.
Then we started our 3 day trip towards Abuja, the capital city.

Osun Sacred Forest

Bush camping was beautiful. Driving was horrendous.

In Abuja, we camped in the back of a Sheraton Hotel! Abuja was huge and had a great market. I got a lot of gifts there, and even stunning abstract painting!!!

View from our campsite in the back of the hotel.

There were speculations about safety before we even entered Nigeria (a lot of fighting caused by extreme Muslim groups calling for Sharia law). Our plan was to head north towards Jos and Yankari National Park, but after reading about the recent bombings we changed our mind and headed towards the Afi Mountains early.
An important habitat for wildlife, this fantastic wildlife sanctuary protects a number of threatened and endangered species, including the rare Cross River Gorilla and Drill Monkey. Check out how cool they look:

What gorgeous animals! We left the Drill Ranch Moneky Sanctuary and headed towards Calabar. Calabar wasn't on out itinerary, but since we didn't go to Jos and Yankari National Park we had extra time. Calabar is in the Cross River State (very south) and was a very lively city. Paul and I walked around all day! We spent 2 days there, I even got some clothes made for me. I was able to check out a little bit of the famous "Calabar Festival" that is an annual holiday type celebration (for an entire month!!) Calabar is one place I would love to go back to in Nigeria...it didn't have the craziness and unwariness of other cities in the country.

Leaving Nigeria in the dust, we headed out on the infamous Cameroonian Jungle road....

Cameroon
Thank goddess we were traveling during the dry season, because this road is impassable during parts of the year. Pictures won't do justice, there were pot holes larger than our truck! We had to drive in and drive out of the pot holes. I could stand in them, and they were over my head!!

Cameroon also has some of the most amazing tropical rainforest in Africa and this gives a perfect insight into how quickly the  rainforests of the world are being destroyed. Deforestation is happening faster here than in the Amazon Jungle.

Paul on an early morning hike on the Jungle Road.

During our trip, the Chinese were in the middle of building a tarmac highway from Nigeria to Cameroon so that this jungle road could be avoided. After many nights of bush camping we finally arrived in the beautiful beach town of Limbe. We camped in the parking lot of Seme Beach Hotel, they even had a spa! Paul and Rito climbed Mount Cameroon (Largest mountain in West Africa, 5th tallest in all of Africa). I watched from the ocean :)




Moving on via Douala, we went to Kribi, another beach town, for Christmas.

Merry Christmas (palm tree with gifts)!

Our group trip was over, but our flight didn't leave for another couple of weeks, we we went back to Limbe to relax on the beach and explore a bit more. One afternoon, Paul and I went to the Limbe Wildlife Center which has connections with the Drill Ranch Moneky Sanctuary in the Afi Mountains of Nigeria. It was much smaller, but much more easily accessible for visitors. Inside of the wildlife center, I saw a sign for "milkshakes"! I thought...milkshakes!? IN AFRICA!? I'm in!! It was here, at ARNE's Restaurant in Limba, Cameroon, that Paul and I met owners Ryan and Erika, who would be bringing us back to Cameroon on our next adventure in 2013.