ei de hear pidgin na but ei no de talk fyn, ei de try.
ei no wan go bak fo whiteman country,
ei go stay fo long tym an ei go talk pidgin plenty.
I have been slowly and inconsistently jotting down some
'ethnographic field notes' as I like to call them.
'ethnographic field notes' as I like to call them.
In this post, I would like to share some
things I have observed.
things I have observed.
This is Africa (TIA)
Have you ever seen the movie Blood Diamond starting Leonardo DiCaprio?
If yes, maybe you will remember the clip below.
If not, watch the clip, watch the movie and maybe you will get what I am about to explain.
This phrase acronym, "TIA", is commonly said here by locals and 'expats' alike. There are things that happen here that are very unlikely to happen where I am from and were many 'expats' are from. For Africans, it is just life. You take a bucket bath with cold water, everyday. When the water comes on you have to stop everything you are doing to 'carry water' (fill containers, bottles and tubs to bring back to the house for storage because the water could cut out at anytime and for who knows how long). Teachers don't show up to class and there is no 'substitute teacher' filling in. The roads are absolute shit. You see a 4-year old child carrying her baby sister of 6 months on her back with a loin cloth. At first, theses situations are difficult to deal with - maybe you complain about the mud, or the electricity cutting out. Maybe you are appalled that you are unable to get a 'refund' from something you bought that doesnt work. Maybe you see a family of 4 with a live goat and 2 chickens on a moto bike and you cant stop staying with an open jaw. Either way, regardless of the situation you just gotta tell yourself... "TIA man, TIA." This is AFRICA.
Monica have been battling a family of mice in our house. I stomped one with a shoe, caught a baby on a sticky pad, and fed another rat poison...we found him in the cushions of the couch a few days later. I was telling a Cameroonian friend the story and as I did, I see a cockroach. I run and try to stomp it dead as I complain, "Man, this house has everything! Mice, spiders, cockroaches, ants..." He said "TIA girl, this is Africa, all of Africa has these things, not just your house". This same friend told me just the other day that he was veeeerry sick, I asked him how so. He said that he was suffering from typhoid fever and malaria. He was diagnosed the day before but hadn't taken the drugs yet because he was waiting to get some money, meanwhile he just suffered in his house. I was very shocked and surprised and he could see it in my face, but he reminded me, "TIA, blak man no de di doty" which you may recall from another blog post, black man doesnt die of dirt - Africans are very very strong.
Soon enough, these things will stop surprising you you. While waiting at the bus park in Yaounde a couple of weekends ago I met a woman who was traveling to Buea to see her son. He is 3 years old and he was in the hospital. I said ashia meaning "sorry" in pidgin and continued to ask her why. Apparently him and another small boy were playing with machetes and he got cut on his face below his eye. I wasnt phased by the fact that children of that age were left unsupervised with access to a machete for a long enough period of time for an accident such as that to happen. Why? TIA. Anytime anything happens that cannot be explained or understood - you just remind yourseld, TIA.
Life is different here: life is simple yet hard, life is rewarding yet unpredictable... life has many ups and downs...but
everyone knows, life is very very special, and you
have to make the most of whatever you have.
"Dash"
"ei go dash yu" "shuld ei dash em?" "yu go dash me em?"
"I'm going to give it to you" "Should I give it to you?" "Are you going to give it to me?"
These are common phrases you will hear all over town and especially in the markets or where people are selling things. People here, as I've mentioned are extremely hospitable, giving and caring people.
By simply complimenting someone's anything, the true generosity of Cameroonians is evident, you are more than likely going to be offered that thing. Dash = to give for free, a gift. A person would literally give you the shirt off their back and the shoes off their feet. People will dash anything from necklaces and other jewelery to food, taxi rides and more. It's quite beautiful. Not a day goes by that I am not amazing with someones actions towards another person or someones actions towards me.
The Importance of Religion
In the US we have what is called "separation of church and state" which pretty much means that the state can make no public acknowledgement of religion, have no religious displays, recognize no tax exemptions for churches blah blah blah. Here - oh no, there is no separation, and if you attempt to separate it you will be thoroughly questioned by all parties.
Before AND after any sort of meeting, whether it be for school, policemen, government bodies, a university group of some sort, or even my workshops for the teen girls...you MUST pray.
Individuals ranging from children being served in their house to a grown man eating in a restaurant will usually bow their head and give a small silent blessing over their food before eating.
When you meet people for the first time, there are about 5 major questins you are always asked in no particular order. -What's your name -Where are you from? -What are you doing in Cameroon? -What church do you go to? or "Do you go to church? [After that comes - How will I see you again? Can I get your contacts? Are you married?] Church is very important here and I have been asked countless times to go with different friends from nearly every city I have visited.
There is a very popular show with many of the locals called TB Joshua. As a Christian minister, televangelist and faith healer he is recognized as one of Africa's 50 most influential people. I remember crowding around the TV with my sisters watching Full House. This is what families and friends commonly sit together and watch:
The Concept of "Family" and the Communistic Attitude
When you think of family, what comes to you mind? Mother, father, brothers and sisters? Think of yourself in grade school, the teacher asks you to draw a picture of your family and 99 out of 100 times a person will draw the nuclear family, the immediate family. Sometimes there are people who will extend that thought to grandparents and aunts, uncles and family pets but that isn't common where I come from.
The term 'family' is a very complicated and can be interpreted in infinite ways. At first I found myself a bit puzzled and uneasy not knowing who was who in the family.
"Is this your uncle, your brother, your cousin or just a family friend?"
"He is my brother."
"Your real brother?"
"Yes my real brother, his family lived next to my family in the village."
.........
It is really all the same here. Friends are family and those from your village are also your family. My friend Peter* lives in Yaounde. I met Bob* in Yaounde when I went to visit for the first time. At one point, Peter and Bob met, they got talking about their past, village, tribe, etc and they realized that they both came from the same village. Peter knew Bob's father. Bob put Peter up in a hotel that night because it was too late in the evening for him to get a ride home. I was shocked by this generality and then Peter explained, "Family reaches as far as your village members. If he came to my door I would give him my bed and sleep on the floor. It's just the way it is here."
Even 'outsiders' are accepted in.
When I went to the wedding in Douala, the family welcomed me with open arms. I really felt at home. Just a few weeks ago, a family member had died. I had several of the "real" family members call me to attend the burial next weekend in Kumba. I was surprised, but then assured that, "You are part of the family now, you must come."
When I went to Bamenda to visit my friend Kellen's family, I was again treated as if I was one of their own children. Angel, the young girl who was glued to my hip while I was visiting has invited me to be her 'guest of honor' at her First Communion on the 11th of August. Mama Kellen told me she has just been running around telling everyone about me... I'm looking forward to seeing them again :)
The truth is, there are plenty of people here in Cameroon who are living a comfortable middle class life, but on the contrary, there are plenty of young Cameroonians who are struggling to find a job and struggling to make ends meat. Everyone watches each others back here. Life is a mere roller coaster of good luck and bad luck. There are are times you will be up and there are times you will be down. Everyone acknowledges that and is sure to help those who are down when they are up.
Another thing I've noticed...people don't often 'borrow' money.. they just give and receive with no debts or dues to be paid.
Holiday Season and Wet Season
Primary and Secondary students finished their classes and writing exams towards the end of June. University students have been finishing periodically all month depending on their course and the college they attend.
Buea is definitely what one would call a "student town" or a "university town". In my 'cité' (what they call each apartment complex or compound of rooms) there have been students leaving nearly everyday. I see them with their huge suitcases of belongings heading back home to their respected villages, towns or cities until school starts again in September. It is very much like American students in that sense.
Another things I've observed is the amount of children that are out and about now that school is not in session. What I don't like about this is the 'child labor' I see every second of the day. Even in this cold wet weather, there are scores of child street hawkers selling random things on top of their head. And when I say child I mean aged between 5 years old - 13 years old walking around the crazy city streets alone.
It is raining just about everyday and for pretty much the entire day. Its not a heavy rain, just a drizzle that picks up every now and again. Sometimes there are heavy storms but only once or twice a week. Everything is wet and there is nothing I can do about it. My clothes get moldy, my kitchen is moldy, my bed is getting moldy, my couch feels wet and cold all the time... I'm told this is still the beginning. It is like this for August conscientiously getting heavier and then September time brings the torrential down pours of the wet season.
dis rain go kill me. pota pota de worry me plenty.
This rain is going to kill me. The mud brings me many problems/bothers me a lot.
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| Southwest Region of Cameroon |
Southwest Region of Cameroon
In my Country Profile of Cameroon, I briefly talked about culture and tribes throughout Cameroon. Now that i have been here for over 4 months, I am really learning a great deal about several local tribes. I've got to the point were someone will tell me their 'tribal' name and the region they are from in Cameroon and I just might be able to guess their tribe. It impresses quite a few people (when I am correct) and they are happy to see and meet a foreigner who is so interested in their culture and their country.
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| Districts/Divisions of the Southwest Region of Cameroon. |
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| Map of the Southwest Region. |
The Tribes of The Southwest Region
The Bakweri people are found in Fako division. This tribe is known to be very brotherly, most are farmers who sell in the market and they practice rites of healing and initiation in associations of spirit mediums. I know an official member (all tribes have them, and each tribe has their specifics with initiation and acceptance of members) who told me that Bakwerians can ride elephants from village to village, town to town. Another friend told me they don't stay together in marriage, or in other words they 'separate'...several married couples will have different houses for each spouse. They are also known to do 'double deals' when selling land, they will sell it to a 2nd person if the 1st hasnt started using the land. Watch out...you don't want to see them angry - because they get very angry.
-It is tradition in this tribe, when a woman or man looses her/his spouse - the village/tribe will put a blue cloth on the floor of their house/entrance for 3 days, shave the person's hair on the 3rd day and then the person will wear blue for 9 months (everyday). After that 9 months they shave their hair again and then wear black everyday. The black is for mourning and the length of time it is worn is the choice of the widow/widower.
The Bakossi hail from Kupe-Manegnguba division - the place where you can throw a stone into a lake and the stone will be thrown right back at you. At least that is what nearly everyone tells me. The Bakossi people are known for practicing a lot of witchcraft/black magic. People will go back to their villages after sometime away (maybe for a wedding or funeral), they will be seen as 'an outsider'. When they leave the village to return to their respected cities/towns, they will mysteriously fall ill. Maybe they will have a sore leg but for no reason, the doctor cant figure out why, medicine doesn't work, soon you become crippled and then you will die. They say its witchcraft. I dont not believe that, if you get what I'm saying. Bakwerians tell me that they are also very brotherly.
The Bayangui people are from the Manyu division and their language (aka dialect or local patwa/patwoi) is called Kenyang. They are direct brothers of the Bakweri tribe and to the Nigerians just to their West. They only major differences are the hats that they wear for traditional ceremonies and by the chiefs. There is a lot of belief of reincarnation, specifically with children. For example, if a young baby or child dies, they believe that that baby will be born to the next woman who falls pregnant in the village. Sometimes the baby is even raised knowing that Woman A (the mother who lost her child) is his/her 1st mother and Woman B (who just bore a new baby) is his/her 2nd mother.
I have a new Canadian friend here who is doing a Human Rights focused internship focusing on women in the region. She has collected a lot of data about abuses and she mentioned to me that female genital cutting aka FGM and breast ironing are mostly still practiced by the Bayangui tribe. Look at this article on breast ironing in Cameroon. I had a Cameroonian friend totally separate from this conversation tell me the same thing about this tribe. And last by not least...watch out because they are said to be a very revengeful tribe.
In Ndian division you can find the Oroko tribe which is also known as the Bakundu tribe (another person said the other name was Barondo so it could be either.) Ekwang is their traditional meal and it's made from cocoyams or cassava, cocoyam leaves, red hot peper, palm oil, spices and some smoked or sun-dried fish/crayfish. I like it. They also keep secrets in their palms and have many mystics about their culture. A Oroko person can whisper something into his palm, shake your hand, and you will do whatever the command was that the Oroko person had said. If you are punched by an Oroko, if you hit the ground, you will not be able to get up until the person's fist has opened up.
Finally in the tiny tiny Lebialem division there are the Bangwa. People of this tribe are often reffered to as '99.9%' because they are exceptionally intelligent. Very smart people but supposidly not very giving; they dont like to share. For example, if all of you and your friends are out taking some beers, everyone but you has bought a 'round of drinks', they might say to you, "Boy, what are you? Bangwa?"
The Bafor people come from Meme division and I wasn't able to get any information...will update it if I find anything!.
Other tribes that friends have mentioned are: Ejagom, Emoko, Apo and Upper and Lower Byam. No one mentioned too much about these tribes, their culture/traditions, or dialect. All I was told is that they are found in Manyu division.
** Disclaimer: This blog is based on my personal experiences in Cameroon and information that has been passed to me. These are all opinions, not facts. I wrote this with NO intention offending anyone. Please inform me privately if you find anything offensive or incorrect. **
Also, if anyone has any additional or contradicting information
pertaining to what is in this post, please share.
*Names changed for privacy purposes.
ei don fyn masa fo dis syd!
PEACE and LOVE <3
PEACE and LOVE <3
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