Trans West Africa: Burkina Faso, Ghana, Togo and Benin

Burkina Faso 

Sunrise over the Volta River

As we cruised through dusty Mali bush-camping along the way, we finally hit the southern boarder with Burkina Faso. Another bush-camp, a full day of driving, and road construction (resulting in an even longer detour) we finally arrived in Ouagadougou [wa - ga - do - go] the capital!

Almost there, kind of....

Ouaga, as its commonly refereed to, was a very bustling city. Like Bamaka, Mali, it is known for its night life and great food! We moved on to Bobo-Dioulasso - they had a fabulous market! I bought fabric, sandals and found a couple of tailors to make a few outfits for my nephews. I also had a tunic altered (it was originally a little kids dress) and some pants fixed!

Heading further south, we stopped in Banfora to do some market/food shopping. We camped outside the city and did a short waterfall hike. It was dry season, so the waterfall was smaller than usual. An impassable road lead us to turn around and find a different route to the waterfal, but it was worth it - quite relaxing and beautiful!

We swam in the pool above!

Ghana
If Ghana was a french speaking country I think it would have been my favorite!! Very diverse and lots of bight and vibrant people and colors.

Women pounding millet at a market near the Burkina Faso/Ghana border.

After a night of bush camping we arrived at Mole National Park in Northern Ghana. Although West Africa isn't as full of animals as East Africa is, we still managed to see plenty of animals with a fraction of the amount of tourists you see in East Africa.

Below, an elephant is submerging itself in a small pond in the Park. They do this to keep cool. But, this elephant never resurfaced after it went under. They say elephants know when they are going to die, and they usually go to be alone. This one chose to go into the pond. The following day, they had to remove the elephant from the pond with big chains and a tractor.

The Larabanga Mosque - Oldest mosque in West Africa, Sudanic style built in the 15th -16th century.

At the Baobeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary

Kintampo Waterfall - a popular hang out and swimming spot for the locals

The largest market in West Africa is located in Kumasi, Ghana. Kumasi is the capital of the current Ashanti region and has also been the historic capital of the Ashanti Kingdom (pre-colonial). Kumasi was a great city with excellent food and many things to do.

I separated from the group in Kumasi and headed to Accra to meet up with the love of my life Paul and our friend Rito. Coincidentally a friend of ours was studying abroad in Accra at the time we were there. We met up with him and got a small tour of campus.

View of the city from the top of University of Accra.

We met back up with the group and moved towards the Togolese boarder and spent a night at Keta Beach hotel.

Rito, Paul and I took an early morning hike to Fort Prinzenstein, another slave port.

Fisherman had been working hard since 2am.

Togo
Togo is a magical sliver of a country. Over 50% of Togolese follow indigenous beliefs (voodoo) and the country is comprised of 37 different ethnic groups!

On the ride to Mount Klouto

Taking a break from a hike for some splashing fun!

Leaving Mount Klouto we headed to Agbodrafo which lies on the shores of Lake Togo. We took a dugout canoe across the lake to visit Togoville, the voodoo capital of West Africa. We missed the Fetish Market but heard all about the crazy things they sell there.

Check out this video of a fetish market to learn more:

Kissing Togo behind heading East towards Benin

 Benin
Similar in size and shape, Benin is takes Voodoo very seriously as it is an officially recognized religion. The first two nights we stayed on the beach in Grand Popo. We had a beautiful view...

Paul met a few locals who invited us to a local show and a bar/restaurant just down the beach. It was fabulous!! Great music and an even greater atmosphere. After playing inside the bar, they moved to the beach for some more jamming.

The following night we went to a voodoo Watchman Ceremony (see photo below). The village believes that these spirits (pictured spinning below) will protect them. There was a lot of spinning, dancing and drums.

We spent a short time in the city of Ouidah stopping at Temples des Pythons:

Paul was a little scared to get that close :)

From here we moved to one of the most facinaing places I have ever been. Ganvie Village on Lake Nokoue: a village built on stilts in the 16th century by the Tofinu people. Established on the lake because the Dahomey's (a slave trading tribe) religion forbade their warriors from entering water, therefore it was a haven to escape the slave trade. A stunning and very unique place.

House on stilts: approximately $1,400

I'm not sure how this worked out but not only was my beloved Aunty Patty was traveling through West Africa at the exact same time I was, but we were also able to randomly meet up! We had planned to see each other in Cotonou, but I wasn't going to be able to make it because my group was leaving earlier than planned. After we got back from Ganvie, we did out market shopping. I saw a small white tour bus looking vehical and though of my Aunty. Next thing I know I saw a group of white tourist walking towards it. I jumped out of my seat on the bus and took a closer look...THERE SHE WAS!! I leaped off the bus yelling "AUNTY PATTY!!"

Aunty Patty, me and Paul :)

Abomey is the ancient capital of the Dahomey kingdom, once one of the most powerful empires in Africa. Here, we walked around the dusty city and saw many preserved homes of previous Dahomey Kings. 

One of the palaces.

Sculptures all around town.